Carb Stalling Troubleshooting...Flooded ?
- Thread starter Tynan918
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So leave off the double gasket setup that was originally there, and just use the single base gasket on the intake manifold ? Or is a base gasket thicker than this ?
Seems like aftermarket carbs come with a thin gasket like that. Just to make sure everything is working use it for now.
The website shows this gasket as the base gasket... I have something similar to that but the inside isn't cut into an even rounded square...
Those curved insides on this gasket block off these fuel or air holes on the carb... Where as, the first gasket I posted doesn't block these holes...
Deciding which jets and rods I should use...
The calibration kit I have, came with :
2 Metering Rods for the following
sizes - .070*.037, .073*.042, 073*.047
2 Metering Jets for the following sizes - 95,
98, 101
I'm shooting good horsepower and good fuel efficiency, or a good balance of the two...
The calibration kit I have, came with :
2 Metering Rods for the following
sizes - .070*.037, .073*.042, 073*.047
2 Metering Jets for the following sizes - 95,
98, 101
I'm shooting good horsepower and good fuel efficiency, or a good balance of the two...
A couple observations:
1) I don't like using paper composite gaskets that have been folded in half creased like that. Makes a weak spot for eroded areas to develop.
2) if you have a known true steel edge that you can use with a light behind it check that intake to carb surface to see if it's level/true. Since it's apart it's a why not moment while it's apart given how there were extra gaskets on things when you took em apart.
3) I've also seen thin gaskets come with aftermarket carbs. On a Rochester you'd usually get something thick and fairly meaty, talking a good 1/8" or so more often than not.
So fat you've found a number of things that would/could impact your running condition, from the fouled plugs, to the extra gaskets to the internal float settings.
Everything you're doing can't help but make it run better. Hopefully it fixes things altogether, we'll see.
1) I don't like using paper composite gaskets that have been folded in half creased like that. Makes a weak spot for eroded areas to develop.
2) if you have a known true steel edge that you can use with a light behind it check that intake to carb surface to see if it's level/true. Since it's apart it's a why not moment while it's apart given how there were extra gaskets on things when you took em apart.
3) I've also seen thin gaskets come with aftermarket carbs. On a Rochester you'd usually get something thick and fairly meaty, talking a good 1/8" or so more often than not.
So fat you've found a number of things that would/could impact your running condition, from the fouled plugs, to the extra gaskets to the internal float settings.
Everything you're doing can't help but make it run better. Hopefully it fixes things altogether, we'll see.
So, jet and rod stock measurements are 7047 rods, and 100 the primary jets, and 95 on the secondary jets.
Based on the rods and jets I have available in my kit, and the calibration reference sheet, my primary jet and rod options are 26, 28, and 29 (highlighted and circled)... 98 jets are the only size primarys I can install for the time being.
But 26 looks like the better option, as it's the only option showing decent power results and still on the lean side.
As for the secondary jets, I'm going to use either the 101 size jets for more power, or 95 size jets for better gas mileage ...
Out of curiosity and a better understanding, can you mix the sizes of the primary rods and step up springs... like run two different sizes at the same time instead of running the exact same size rods and springs ?
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Trying to see if I understand the question.... do you mean on the right side run one primary rod size, and on the left run another?
If that's your question you should run things matched in pairs.
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