CCC Elimination on 83 OLDS 98 Coupe 307

Status
Not open for further replies.

OLDSMOBILE307

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 14, 2018
10
7
3
DSCN1212[1].JPG
DSCN1214[1].JPG
DSCN1207[1].JPG
DSCN1210[1].JPG
DSCN1213[1].JPG
Sorry this isn't exactly G body specific. Posted on the Olds forum, but they don't get a ton of traffic. I've found a a lot of information on the forums here.

Car has under 60K on it. Very nice car. The CCC setup was basically a disaster. I think it was stuck in limp mode, ran terrible, and I could not run codes on it. Basically an ECM or severe wiring issue. I have all the service manual flow charts, but didn't have great luck diagnosing it.

Decided to eliminate the CCC setup. Found a 77 Olds carb in my attic that I'm currently rebuilding. Also have a new HEI distributor from Summit Racing and TCI lockup kit for the 2004R.

Plan is: No smog pump, no cruise control, no EGR (current valve is not functioning).

The A/C works great, so I'm keeping that.

Questions I have:

Does anyone know what size belt I need to keep the A/C, but eliminate the smog pump (I can measure with the old belt, but figured I'd ask?

What do I need to do for the A/C (and HVAC in general) to work? I understand it goes through the ECM (for some reason), so I know something will need to be done.

What size threads are the pipes that go into the heads? I understand they are not exactly standard threads, so I don't want to crossthread something in.

There are 3 sensors on the front of the engine. From what I can tell, one is oil pressure, the other 2 are temperature sensors/switches. Which ones do I need to keep? Will those dummy lights even still work without the ECM?

There are also 2 vacuum connectors (one on front of intake and one in the back) that screw into water jackets. I'm assuming I can just plug those off if I find something with the correct thread size?

Also the EFE on the driver side exhaust manifold - I assume I can just leave the vacuum line disconnected to it? I believe that default position is open. It moves by hand fine.

For the carb itself I'm not going to bother with the rear vacuum canister on the passenger side. From all I can tell it pulls the choke plate back about 1/8th of an inch 30 seconds into warm up. Imagine it should work fine without that. Also not bothering with the front driver side vacuum can to bump the idle for A/C. I can always add that later if it's truly necessary.

I didn't know any better and removed the APT adjustment screw in the carb. From what I can gather about 3-3.5 turns out should get it going. I knocked the plug out so I can adjust later if needed.

Anyways..Sorry for the length. Just wanted to put my project out there and see if anyone had any experience doing something similar and could offer any advise.

Thanks!
 
Last edited:

pontiacgp

blank
Mar 31, 2006
29,270
20,391
113
Kitchener, Ontario
I would not remove the EGR, it cools the combustion chamber and without it you will have to back off the timing
 

OLDSMOBILE307

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 14, 2018
10
7
3
I have seen that mentioned when I search the subject. Most of the comments seem (from what I can tell) to be theoretical though, and not actual experience.

I guess I don't completely understand how the EGR functions on this engine. Also, it wasn't functioning at all previously (since I owned the car) and there was no pinging (although it was running rich and not totally perfect).

If I did buy a new or replacement EGR - can it be hooked to any intake (or bottom carb plate) vacuum source?
 

TURNA

Rocket Powered Basset Hound
Jul 24, 2009
10,941
19,990
113
Socialist NY
Welcome to the site.

I am about to do the same thing to my Cutlass.
 

techg8

Master Mechanic
Feb 29, 2012
475
342
63
when removing CCC, remember that your distributor is computer advanced as well. Removing the ECM kills your timing advance.
 

OLDSMOBILE307

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 14, 2018
10
7
3
"Also have a new HEI distributor from Summit Racing and TCI lockup kit for the 2004R."
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

Jimmy

Greasemonkey
Jan 25, 2016
216
469
63
Gulfport, MS
I don't have the size on the AC belt but I just went to NAPA and they will look it up without the smog pump. The pipes don't actually go into the heads they go into the exhaust manifolds. I think they are 1/4" or close enough to be tapped to that size. They are a straight thread, but you can buy brass plugs from some place like Home Depot and thread them in to seal the holes. I put the HEI distributor and Jet Carb with electric choke I bought from Summit in mine a couple of months ago and it runs fine.
 

foxtrot

Royal Smart Person
Dec 19, 2008
1,489
590
113
USA
I don't have the size on the AC belt but I just went to NAPA and they will look it up without the smog pump. The pipes don't actually go into the heads they go into the exhaust manifolds. I think they are 1/4" or close enough to be tapped to that size. They are a straight thread, but you can buy brass plugs from some place like Home Depot and thread them in to seal the holes. I put the HEI distributor and Jet Carb with electric choke I bought from Summit in mine a couple of months ago and it runs fine.
On the Olds engine, the air injection pipes do actually thread into the heads on not the exhaust manifolds..
 
  • Agree
Reactions: 1 users

Jimmy

Greasemonkey
Jan 25, 2016
216
469
63
Gulfport, MS
On the Olds engine, the air injection pipes do actually thread into the heads on not the exhaust manifolds..
You're right its been a long time since I did that and confused it with a 350 chevy exhaust. I apologize for the misinformation.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

OLDSMOBILE307

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 14, 2018
10
7
3
In case anyone finds this thread and is wondering. The belt is 53". Check for older model Oldsmobiles when you look them up at a parts store. They will list With A/C, Without Air pump as an option. That's the same measurement I got, so should be good.

Also, the plugs are Dorman 785-452D (5/16 inverted flare). Oreilly sells them. They only carry a couple in each store though. I went to NAPA and they had some in their brake fittings organizer. Not Dorman, but basically identical. They were each $1 cheaper also.

I'm trying to take the whole CCC wiring harness out of the engine now. Basically that makes it easy to find out what the computer needs and what it doesn't. All part of the same harness.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor