Changing axle seals

[19cutlass79]

So I found a good vid of how to change a pinion seal and marking everything and counting turns to put the pinion nut in the same place, so you don't mess up the crush sleeve. I couldn't find a tutorial on how to replace the axle seals can anyone do me favor and shoot me link? 8.5 grandnational rear end.

thanks,
wade

 

[megaladon6]

well, my first piece of advice is to go buy a repair manual. i usually keep one in my car at all times (including the daily driver)
axle seals are easy, pull the wheels and the drums,
remove the diff cover and drain the fluid
rotate the differential over until you find the small bolt that runs horizontally through the spider gear pin
BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL!!!!! remove the pin. you may have to rock it back and forth if it binds or tap the diff case with a hammer to get it to break free--just don' break it!!!!
remove the center pin---try not to rotate the carrier without the pin, the gears can fall out!
push one axle in, you should now see the c-clip on the end of it, remove that and the axle slides out.
remove the old seal
gently put in the new seal--IIRC a number of people recommend putting RTV on the outside of the seal
reverse all the above
BTW now is a very good time to take a look at your wheel cylinders and backing plates. if the plates are rotted you need to pull the axle for replacement.
also, make sure you have the proper oil if you have a limited slip rear.

 

[mebe007]

im going to bump this instead of starting a new, everything is apart. do i just pry out the old seal? should i replace the bearings since i am putting in new moser axles?

 

[mebe007]

ok figured out a nice easy way to get the seals out. simply use the c clip groove on the axle and walla its pop right out. now just to figure out how to get the bearings out. i cant for the life of me find my slide hammer.

 

[rlsllc]

I'd replace the bearings if it we mine. The seals are easy, I use the axle or big chanel locks, whatever is around. Yep, just pry them out.

The bearings have to be pulled with a slide hammer and attacment, Auto Zone has one you can use.

I drive the bearings in with a big socket, and the seals with a wood block. I pack the bearings with grease and grease the seals.

A side note, that pin comes out easier if you put some heat on the carrier right where the threaded part of pin is. They usually have thread locker on them. On that note, put some blue thread locker on it when you put it back in, and don't over tighten it. You may be the next guy to take it out.

Rather than counting threads, the way I would put the yoke back on, if you were replacing the pinion seal, is to measure the torque in inch pounds it takes to rotate the pinion before disassembly, with just the pinion in the housing, replace the seal, reassemble, and tighten the nut until the measured resistance, in inch pounds of torque, is the same as before disassembly.

This is called setting the pinion bearing preload, and I would prolly replace the crush sleeve just to be safe if you have any doubts. It should be around 12 inch lbs IIRC.

This is how I do it, may not work for you, I have done it several times on 10 bolt Astro vans and Ford 8.8" axles.

Be careful when setting the preload, as once it starts to get tight, it takes only a fraction of a turn to make a major change.