Charcoal canister/ported vacuum switch

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Screwz

Greasemonkey
May 10, 2021
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Except there will still be some airflow, especially as the tank develops some vacuum as the engine sucks fuel out while running. If loops worked GM engineers would have used them over a charcoal can. The tank vents out with the engine off, and vents in while the engine runs. Closed venting does reduce fuel system issues by keeping moisture out. Even the fuel in the loops will still phase seperate and eventually contaminate the rest of the fuel and the varnish clogs the loops, blocking venting and starving the engine.

My tractor has open venting and the gas in it routinely phase seperates and eats the needle valve in the carb. Never had this issue in the Regal with intact Evap. Thankfully it only takes 5 minutes to replace the needle valve in the tractor but still annoying.
My lawnmower has open venting and I don’t have any problems with it . All I do is put 91 without ethanol in before I store it for the winter . I think it’s the alcohol not the air. And it gets stored in an open barn not an closed garage.
 
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airboatgreg

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Oct 2, 2016
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If you want to keep it a nice car just buy a cannister. You are only creating a bunch of unnecessary problems. One and done
 
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Ernest

G-Body Guru
Apr 28, 2016
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Not that i smell any gas fumes under the hood or by the gas tank, engine idleing or not, its inside the car i smell thats like a combination of gas and exhaust when taking a cruise anywhere, its not overwhelming, but it needs to be delt with.

Here is how i recieved the car, the prior owner(s) removed the charcoal canister and its associated hardware, all thats left is the gas tank vent line secured to the frame that has a deteriated rubber vacuum plug on it, good for keeping the bugs out, thats for sure.
 

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CopperNick

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Feb 20, 2018
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If you smell any kind of gassy smell however diluted then you do need to slither under your ride and inspect that vent line all the way from the tank to the canister location. Start by replacing that dead plug that was installed to cork off the line when the canister was deleted. if that doesn't solve the problem then the line itself could be rotten or possibly the hose at the tank end has split or broken and the tank is venting direct to the environment. Should the tank hose be damaged, you would not get much of the smell because most of it is behind you and left behind when you drive. You'd get some of it at idle due mostly to whatever breezes are blowing around.



Nick
 
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g0thiac

G-Body Guru
Sep 6, 2020
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If you smell any kind of gassy smell however diluted then you do need to slither under your ride and inspect that vent line all the way from the tank to the canister location. Start by replacing that dead plug that was installed to cork off the line when the canister was deleted. if that doesn't solve the problem then the line itself could be rotten or possibly the hose at the tank end has split or broken and the tank is venting direct to the environment. Should the tank hose be damaged, you would not get much of the smell because most of it is behind you and left behind when you drive. You'd get some of it at idle due mostly to whatever breezes are blowing around.



Nick
Was wondering, where would someone get vacuum lines for the charcoal canister, or all if buying in store is possible? The ones in my Caprice are cracked.
 

CopperNick

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Napa. O'Reilly's, Champion, Canadian Tire, Local Indie Speed Shop. The tubing that typically gets used to repair cracked vacuum line is nothing more than a heavy wall rubber tube with an ID that matches the OD of the steel line on which it will be pushed. For the gas tank vent line it is the same double wall with woven cloth intermediate layer that is used with the mechanical fuel pump. The lines from the canister to the Carb are likely to be just a heavy wall rubber tube with not woven I-layer. You can and will find that the vacuum lines used with the distributor and the carb may also be just a heavy wall rubber hose with a very small ID. Line sold by the foot from a bulk reel should have the use and size printed on its outer layer by way of identification. As a mfgr, Gates Rubber comes to immediate mind.

Where things get interesting is when Throttle bodies and fuel injection enter the picture. They require a hose that is rated for FI use. Off the bulk roll standard fuel line will not work; can't handle the in line pressure.



Nick
 
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g0thiac

G-Body Guru
Sep 6, 2020
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Napa. O'Reilly's, Champion, Canadian Tire, Local Indie Speed Shop. The tubing that typically gets used to repair cracked vacuum line is nothing more than a heavy wall rubber tube with an ID that matches the OD of the steel line on which it will be pushed. For the gas tank vent line it is the same double wall with woven cloth intermediate layer that is used with the mechanical fuel pump. The lines from the canister to the Carb are likely to be just a heavy wall rubber tube with not woven I-layer. You can and will find that the vacuum lines used with the distributor and the carb may also be just a heavy wall rubber hose with a very small ID. Line sold by the foot from a bulk reel should have the use and size printed on its outer layer by way of identification. As a mfgr, Gates Rubber comes to immediate mind.

Where things get interesting is when Throttle bodies and fuel injection enter the picture. They require a hose that is rated for FI use. Off the bulk roll standard fuel line will not work; can't handle the in line pressure.



Nick
Thanks Nick, do you know the sizes that I should ask for? Honestly I just want to replace all the vacuum lines in the car, but don’t know where to start haha!
 

CopperNick

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That's what the guy behind the counter is for. Failing the presence of someone on the floor who actually knows the specific sizes, fuel/vacuum line comes in multiple sizes. For what you might need, sizes from 3/8ths down to 1/4 in the fuel line, and from 1/4 down to 1/8 in the vacuum line, should give you enough choice range to cover what is presently being used. If possible go for precut display bags, they typically come 25 foot in the larger lengths to 50+ in the smaller but are priced cheaper than by the foot. If you do end up going bulk off the bobbin, use the overall length plus its width of your car as a measurement and get your hose that long. Arguably too much for what will be actually needed but gives you extra to play with if you mis-measure anything. Don't forget to get hose clamps to replace the ones that will either die or disappear during the swaps.



Nick
 

Ernest

G-Body Guru
Apr 28, 2016
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Dont rely on counter help being nowledgeable, most places are nothing more than a revolving door nowadays.

I remember back in the mid 90s, a lot of us hot rodders flocked to a speed store called "Super Shops", the brick and morter stores no longer exist, but now reside online, what im getting too, more than half the time, the customers that went there knew exactly what they were looking for, tried explaining it to the employees what they wanted, it was like pulling teeth, a real hastle, so the place got nicknamed, "Stupid Shops".

With the plethera of info online, be prepared to know more than the employees, its much faster to find what your lQQking for w/o the hastle of them looking at you like a deer in headlights, i know i dont bother asking for help anymore, i already KNOW what im looking for, if you cant find it localy, buy it online if possible.
 
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