I have a buick regal with a V6 and 1996 Impala Complete Car. I want everything from the rear-end to the radiator in my regal. I dont know where to start can some who has done this swap help me out with a few starting and ending pointers.I do have lots of experince with swap of carbuerated 350 swaps but never a FI.
Complete LT1 swap
- Thread starter CutMonRegMan
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The mechanical aspects will be the pretty much the same of course. You'll probably need to modify or replace the transmission crossmember. A G-force or Jeg's unit will allow true equal-length duals.
Also, you'll have the wiring. There are books available to help with these typre of swaps, especially on where you can snip unneeded connections. You'll spend a little money on the book, but it beats hundreds on a plug and play unit.
I'm not sure of the titles, or which thread I has seen it in, I think it had to do with a TPI swap, so you might search that way.
Also, you'll have the wiring. There are books available to help with these typre of swaps, especially on where you can snip unneeded connections. You'll spend a little money on the book, but it beats hundreds on a plug and play unit.
I'm not sure of the titles, or which thread I has seen it in, I think it had to do with a TPI swap, so you might search that way.
The Pass-Key system is one of the bigger PITA problems when using the factory wiring. It is used in 1989 or 90 and later GM cars and requires a chipped key with a resistor in it and the appropriate cylinder that reads it to allow the engine to run. If the Imp uses the same basic column as a G body, you may be able to swap the column to the point of the G body steering shaft joint and just swap the upper column without the lower shaft. I don't know for sure. Also, GM airbag columns I believe use the same steering wheel splines as a non airbag column, so you should be able to swap out the steering wheel with a non-airbag unit. Then there is the radiator as a B body radiator is not a bolt in to a G body and the LT1 uses odd inlets and outlets that are specific to that engine. You probably can use the radiator off a 4th gen F body with an LT1( 93-97 Z-28, T/A or Formula). I know the 3rd gen Radiator interchanges with the G car and assume the 4th gen will as well. You may even be able to use a Covette radiator but I am unsure about the dimensions and too lazy to look it up for you. The wiring can be done by modifying the factory setup, but it is easier if you spend the money for a plug and play harness-especially if you are not well versed in electrical systems and late-model electronics. You also may need to worry about pollution controls if your area does inspections. This is something you will need to research on your own if it applies. Different municipalities test for different things and most are not as strict as California. Then there are minor issues like power steering hoses, A/C lines, fuel supply and return lines, do you want an in tank or external fuel pump?, exhaust plumbing and routing, HVAC controls, air inlet and filter placement, throttle cable, computer control of the 4L60E trans, driveshaft fabrication ( needs to be shortened and balanced), front suspension spring rate, cooling fans, trans cooler lines, etc.
Remember that you can get a external pump that will provide enough volume and pressure to supply a EFI setup, but it is VERY important that it does not have a fluctuation in fuel supply. You need a baffled tank to keep fuel slosh from uncovering the pickup in the corners or under hard braking. What happens is that the pump will speed up when it has no fuel feed and then hit a wall when the fuel supply returns, and can damage the pump if it happens too often. There are 2 sources for EFI tanks for a G body: a TBI 4.3 car or a Turbo Regal with the EFI engine ( early turbo G bodies have carbs). I am unsure, but diesel G bodies may have used a electric in tank pusher pump to feed the engine mounted injection pump like a Mercedes 300D used in the 70's and 80's. I have a little experience with the Mercedes but no experience with GM diesel cars so I can't say for sure. If you run a baffled tank, you might as well use an in tank pump as well since you will have everything there anyhow and all you need is an appropriate pump for your application. You will of course, need flexible fuel lines capable of taking the 40-60psi of pressure a multi-port EFI needs. Most of your lines can and should be hard lines as they tend to be more durable, but you must use flex lines to connect between the chassis lines and the engine lines in order to allow movement with the engine under load.
Remember that you can get a external pump that will provide enough volume and pressure to supply a EFI setup, but it is VERY important that it does not have a fluctuation in fuel supply. You need a baffled tank to keep fuel slosh from uncovering the pickup in the corners or under hard braking. What happens is that the pump will speed up when it has no fuel feed and then hit a wall when the fuel supply returns, and can damage the pump if it happens too often. There are 2 sources for EFI tanks for a G body: a TBI 4.3 car or a Turbo Regal with the EFI engine ( early turbo G bodies have carbs). I am unsure, but diesel G bodies may have used a electric in tank pusher pump to feed the engine mounted injection pump like a Mercedes 300D used in the 70's and 80's. I have a little experience with the Mercedes but no experience with GM diesel cars so I can't say for sure. If you run a baffled tank, you might as well use an in tank pump as well since you will have everything there anyhow and all you need is an appropriate pump for your application. You will of course, need flexible fuel lines capable of taking the 40-60psi of pressure a multi-port EFI needs. Most of your lines can and should be hard lines as they tend to be more durable, but you must use flex lines to connect between the chassis lines and the engine lines in order to allow movement with the engine under load.
Jim what was the snake? Wish you had some captions or a little info with your pics.
Use an in-tank pump its far and away superior. I used www.racetronix.com Click the Buick GN/Ttype/GNX link for the pump and everything you need to make it as plug & play as possible. You can also get a brand new Grand National aftermarket tank. It does not have as good of a baffle / thing for the pump to set in but it its an option. Its also rust free. Check out www.robertpowersmotorsports.com
Bob has a page with a section including pics of his in tank set up.
Use an in-tank pump its far and away superior. I used www.racetronix.com Click the Buick GN/Ttype/GNX link for the pump and everything you need to make it as plug & play as possible. You can also get a brand new Grand National aftermarket tank. It does not have as good of a baffle / thing for the pump to set in but it its an option. Its also rust free. Check out www.robertpowersmotorsports.com
Bob has a page with a section including pics of his in tank set up.
LOL I was taking pics in flip flops and when I bent down to take some underneith there he was ..had to run him out with a stick ,he was nonposionus though , Here is another pretty good write up about the swap .
http://home.comcast.net/~spudmanmike/scrapbook.pdf
http://home.comcast.net/~spudmanmike/scrapbook.pdf
Jim ,
did you modify your harness yourself or did you get an aftermarket harness.....I'm doing same type of conversion , and need a bit of assistance ...
what headers did you use ( p/n)?
Dan
did you modify your harness yourself or did you get an aftermarket harness.....I'm doing same type of conversion , and need a bit of assistance ...
what headers did you use ( p/n)?
Dan
I modded the harness myself ,the camaro harness is pretty easy if you have the diagrams,and a little common sense ,just remove all the looms ,start at the relay box and cut any wires you know your not gonna need ,I cut prolly 85% out of the relay box ,just kept the stuff for the electric fans ,and computer power ,main harness didn't need much if any trimming.I also cut the body side of all the insde plugs and kept the engine side of my 305 harness and just put the two togeather and plugged em in ,had a few wires i forgot about and had to hardwire em togeather ,but i'll straighten all that out after I get the computer back and get it running normal. Fot headers i used the same ones as Spudman in the link above ,hooker mids p/n hok-2466-1hkr coated headers
I will also add that if you do splice two harnesses together, don't use the typical butt splice connectors from the parts store. Computers are sensitive to low voltage and resistance. That being said, the correct way to make a durable low resistance connection is to use a connector that comes without insulation and crimp it, then solder the connection and seal and insulate it using heat shrink tubing. Just be sure you slip the heat shrink over the wire before you solder it. If you have a lot of connections to make, go ahead and get either a pencil torch or a butane cigar lighter. Using a match or ordinary Bic lighter gets old after a short time ( you have to hold it down for a long time to shrink some tubing) and you will burn yourself.
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