Constant Hot air out of vents? Help

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Michael Farrell

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 4, 2016
25
1
8
Carleton Place, Ontario
Hi All,

so got it figured out, the cable for the hot cold mix is in fact working but the piece where the little arm mounts to the car has broken off
(below is how it should look) where as mine moves freely and wont push the rod in, I have pushed it all the way in and now I get slightly cooler air any idea what I can do to fix it? was thinking get a peice of dowel that's a tight fit and
upload_2016-9-15_14-19-1.png
 

Longroof79

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Oct 14, 2008
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I believe Dixie Restoration Depot sells a replacement arm, but I don't see an easy way to replace it.
Mine had a piece broken off from the arm. I ended up repairing it with epoxy.
 

ck80

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Feb 18, 2014
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Hi All,

so got it figured out, the cable for the hot cold mix is in fact working but the piece where the little arm mounts to the car has broken off
(below is how it should look) where as mine moves freely and wont push the rod in, I have pushed it all the way in and now I get slightly cooler air any idea what I can do to fix it? was thinking get a peice of dowel that's a tight fit and
View attachment 54538

That it what I expected, there are two parts to the fix.

1) you need to remove and repair the arm. You first remove the threaded gold colored metal arm from the white plastic keeper so the black arm has its full range of motion. After removing this metal arm you move the door by gently pushing the metal arm forward towards the front of the car. The metal arm has play and can flop up and down safely. Now, with the door fully closed and the metal arm disengaged, the small black plastic arm can be rotated counterclockwise. When it is rotated far enough the broken plastic arm can be lifted straight upwards and out for repair.

The arms themselves are discontinued and reproductions (when in stock which is also rare) are extremely overpriced. (Don't be surprised at $30-$40 with "processing" and shipping.) You can however fix it yourself durably for $2-$3.

I repair them by securely clamping them to the face of my workbench. Then I drill out what's left of the projecting plastic stud with the same size drill bit making sure I go at a 90* angle, perfectly vertical. Next, get a short machine screw, 1 nut, and two flat thin washers from ace hardware/home depot in the pull out trays of hardware. You put one washer against the head of the screw/bolt, put it through the plastic, then on the other side of the plastic another washer and then the nut. Tighten it down good and snug. The loop on the end of the control cable then goes on the screw, which is same diameter as the original plastic stud, and it all can be capped with the original fitting.

Reinstall is reverse of above, drop in, rotate slightly, then fit threaded rod into the white keeper with the control lever (hot or cold) at the stopper for the position you have the door in at the time of attachment.

2) the second part of the fix involves how the part likely broke in the first place... you may notice after reinstall that the hot/cold lever meets resistance on one end of the control or the other. Forcing it breaks off that plastic stud as happened to you. You will need to check and diagnose the problem that is causin the binding and not force the control.
 
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Michael Farrell

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 4, 2016
25
1
8
Carleton Place, Ontario
followed your advice ck80, got it all fixed up after some tinkering and now it works perfectly :), the last issue I've now found is that the latch on the rear of my bucket seat (for access to the back seats) seems to have failed and the seat flops forward freely has anyone dealt with this or know how to fix it?
 
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