Converting to tubular a arms

Kelvin's80442

Greasemonkey
Apr 19, 2020
230
63
Ste Rose Manitoba
Is there a thread here on how to convert to tubular a arms? I searched but cannot find. Rest of my parts are in Wednesday. Seems pretty straightforward but I am concerned with RR of the coil springs.
I bought the tool that compresses them. Just seen too many bad videos of them springs.
 

pagrunt

Geezer
Sep 14, 2014
7,415
113
Elderton, Pa
As long as you have a good spring compressor it'll be a RR itself. Remove the shocks, unbolt the end links, compress springs, loosen ball joints, remove/install one arm at a time, put it all back together. This will also be a good time to swap springs if needed too.
 
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Kelvin's80442

Greasemonkey
Thread starter
Apr 19, 2020
230
63
Ste Rose Manitoba
As long as you have a good spring compressor it'll be a RR itself. Remove the shocks, unbolt the end links, compress springs, loosen ball joints, remove/install one arm at a time, put it all back together. This will also be a good time to swap springs if needed too.
Okay thanks. I bought new springs 5662, center link inner and outter tierods and arm. I assume will be wise to change out the alignment shims too.
Even going to be close with alignment if I use the exact shims?
Thanks
 

Clone TIE Pilot

Comic Book Super Hero
Aug 14, 2011
3,006
113
Galaxy far far away
Okay thanks. I bought new springs 5662, center link inner and outter tierods and arm. I assume will be wise to change out the alignment shims too.
Even going to be close with alignment if I use the exact shims?
Thanks

Most likely not, you will need an alignment.
 
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ssn696

Living in the Past
Supporting Member
Jul 19, 2009
5,279
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One thing to prepare for is if the frame holes for the A-arm bolts are out of round due to wear and tear. You can weld a washer over an ovaled hole, or fill in with weld and redrill it.

Typically, the factory shims made up for differences in the frame geometry more than the smaller, more controllable suspension parts. Although these cars are now 40+ years old, restacking the original shim packs will be a good starting point. Tho tubular systems often change the steering geometry to add more negative camber, so the final alignment must be measured to make the car track and handle properly. If you are putting on new rims and tires, have those on for the alignment.
 
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mikester

Royal Smart Person
Mar 10, 2010
2,423
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Small town NY
Make sure you use the right hardware if its not included with the new arms. Buy metric grade 10.9 EVERYTHING including washers and prevailing torque lock nuts. Not nylocks.
 
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ssn696

Living in the Past
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Jul 19, 2009
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Kelvin's80442

Greasemonkey
Thread starter
Apr 19, 2020
230
63
Ste Rose Manitoba
One thing to prepare for is if the frame holes for the A-arm bolts are out of round due to wear and tear. You can weld a washer over an ovaled hole, or fill in with weld and redrill it.

Typically, the factory shims made up for differences in the frame geometry more than the smaller, more controllable suspension parts. Although these cars are now 40+ years old, restacking the original shim packs will be a good starting point. Tho tubular systems often change the steering geometry to add more negative camber, so the final alignment must be measured to make the car track and handle properly. If you are putting on new rims and tires, have those on for the alignment.
Okay. I will be using the stock rims.
I am hoping to find new shims instead of using the old ones
 

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