coolant length of stay...

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melloelky

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i understand that the t-stat sets the minimum temperature and after a certain point it's open and it's job is done for the time being.my query is,will it cool better with a higher temp stat that keeps the radiator full allowing the radiator to do it's job and cool the coolant down before it lets it all go to do it's job?I'm thinking of going hotter from the 180 to the hotter 195.
 

Clone TIE Pilot

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The T stant blocks flow until the engine warms up to allow for faster warm up and better temp control. 195 degrees is a good general purpose setting, as engine oil must reach 180 degrees to burn out moisture. To cool of a t stant will reduce engine life, something Ford figured out back in the 60's.
 
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airboatgreg

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Well put clone. You want the engine to warm up quicker to run better, reduce emissions, get the heater working and reduce contamination in the crankcase. The t-stat also slows the coolant mix down for better heat absorption
 
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pontiacgp

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The T stant blocks flow until the engine warms up to allow for faster warm up and better temp control. 195 degrees is a good general purpose setting, as engine oil must reach 180 degrees to burn out moisture. To cool of a t stant will reduce engine life, something Ford figured out back in the 60's.

Ford also figured out if the engine broke down more often that would help their engines to last longer..... :popcorn:
 
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Bonnewagon

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higher temp stat that keeps the radiator full
The radiator stays full no matter what. That is the purpose of the sealed system and overflow tank. As the coolant heats and expands, the excess goes into the tank. When the engine cools down, it sucks the coolant back out of the tank. Any air "should" exit into the tank and be expelled out the opening. A stated, the stat slows the flow. Race cars that don't use a stat use an orifice (washer) that is calculated to slow the flow enough so the coolant can spend enough time in the radiator to give up the heat. A good way to adjust flow is to have different size water pump pulleys to slow or speed up the pump.
 
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melloelky

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i get the jist of it all,I'm going back and fourth about switching the to the 195 is all.
thanks guys
 
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Bonnewagon

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Since you are in Mass and you know what COLD is- I agree with the 195° stat. I find no problems in Summer even with AC since I have an aluminum radiator.
 
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69hurstolds

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Thermostats were only used to get the engine to heat up quickly to reduce emissions and reach operating temperatures. The main thing is radiator surface area and heat transfer coefficients of the radiator material, like copper or aluminum. If you can increase the surface area of the radiator, you'll reject more heat. Thickness by itself will not do this. It won't hurt, but it won't necessarily help. This is why some 3 core staggered cores cool better than 4 core inline cores.

You want the pump to speed up for maximum cooling. Never slow it down. When dealing with radiators, you want turbulent flows and when you slow flow down, you can lose turbulent flow. The mass flow rate equation proves this to be true. Same with the air flow side. So make sure you trap the air to go through the radiator and not around it. Make sure all the seals are in place and shroud if applicable. Push/pull electric fans with suitable air movement will do the job or make sure your fan clutch, if used, is in good operating condition.

180 or 195 is perfectly fine. 195 was used in most CCC types so as to get that cat hot quick and stay hot enough to reduce emissions without burning sh*t up. But as noted, once the T-stat opens, it's going to pretty much act more as an orifice.

All that to say.....your radiator configuration and air flow across it will determine how fast you reject heat, not the T-stat.
 
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Bonnewagon

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Never slow it down.
I once had a 1967 Firebird parts car. It was used as an undercover car by the NYPD. It was ordered with the 400 HO engine, Borg Warner HD 3 speed manual trans, manual steering, no radio, just heat. Bare bones. It had only one fan belt and the single groove water pump pulley was huge like a pie plate. I figured they wanted to slow the water pump and alternator since it would be driven hard. It kept the 400 cool. I still have the HO exhaust manifolds and some other parts.
 
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08Malibu

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Thermostats were only used to get the engine to heat up quickly to reduce emissions and reach operating temperatures. The main thing is radiator surface area and heat transfer coefficients of the radiator material, like copper or aluminum. If you can increase the surface area of the radiator, you'll reject more heat. Thickness by itself will not do this. It won't hurt, but it won't necessarily help. This is why some 3 core staggered cores cool better than 4 core inline cores.

You want the pump to speed up for maximum cooling. Never slow it down. When dealing with radiators, you want turbulent flows and when you slow flow down, you can lose turbulent flow. The mass flow rate equation proves this to be true. Same with the air flow side. So make sure you trap the air to go through the radiator and not around it. Make sure all the seals are in place and shroud if applicable. Push/pull electric fans with suitable air movement will do the job or make sure your fan clutch, if used, is in good operating condition.

180 or 195 is perfectly fine. 195 was used in most CCC types so as to get that cat hot quick and stay hot enough to reduce emissions without burning sh*t up. But as noted, once the T-stat opens, it's going to pretty much act more as an orifice.

All that to say.....your radiator configuration and air flow across it will determine how fast you reject heat, not the T-stat.
You don’t want it flowing too fast, such as with no t stat at all. You need the coolant to stay in the radiator long enough to let the air flow over it to do its job. No t stat can lead to overheating on hot days.
 
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