MONTE CARLO "COPO" Monte Carlo SS - Turbosaurus Build (Swinging Dick Racing's c*ck got bent... she bounced a little too high & hard, & came down awkwardly)
- Thread starter motorheadmike
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Got home from seeing Santa at the mall and decided to suffer some more... so I scrapped, scrubbed, degreased, stripped, scuffed, descaled, straightened the transmission crossmember. Then I welded on a brace and got to painting it with the handy man's Plan B: Tremclad.
The saga continues...
Pulled the 200-4R out of the corner and got to work on it. Added the ICT Billet cooler fittings to the case - remember to put some form of sealant on the threads and don't over torque them - they are aluminum. Reading the online reviews of people snapping them off and then blaming the manufacturer makes you shake your head. We'll see how well those fitting fit once the trans is in the car.
Same dipstick retention mod as the 4L80E in the wagon... just a SHCS popped in there.
Fabbed up a remote pressure port. This will be important for logging once the car is up and running - will help ensure the TV cable is functioning properly.
Flexplate bolts with blue Loctite on the threads and ARP lube under the heads. The factory bolts are 10.9 - no need for ARP bolts.
Grabbed the stock flexplate off the TBSS (good enough for this application). I have a horrible memory - so I write important information where I can find it.
Pulled the 200-4R out of the corner and got to work on it. Added the ICT Billet cooler fittings to the case - remember to put some form of sealant on the threads and don't over torque them - they are aluminum. Reading the online reviews of people snapping them off and then blaming the manufacturer makes you shake your head. We'll see how well those fitting fit once the trans is in the car.
Same dipstick retention mod as the 4L80E in the wagon... just a SHCS popped in there.
Fabbed up a remote pressure port. This will be important for logging once the car is up and running - will help ensure the TV cable is functioning properly.
Flexplate bolts with blue Loctite on the threads and ARP lube under the heads. The factory bolts are 10.9 - no need for ARP bolts.
Grabbed the stock flexplate off the TBSS (good enough for this application). I have a horrible memory - so I write important information where I can find it.
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Pardon the delayed narrative... I uploaded the pics and started eating dinner. Sorry, not sorry.
These f*cking notches. No one ever mentioned needing these f*cking notches to clear the top two hex head bolts on the rear cover (note: Gen IV engines should have counter sunk SHCS that wouldn't require this mod). I discovered this when the top of the bellhousing wouldn't seat against the block - out comes Mr. Flashlight and low and behold there they were f*cking up my day. Out it all comes so I can lay under the car with a die grinder (erasing the witness marks) and cover myself with aluminum slivers. The ICT converter adapter bushing is in the back of the crank.
After that it went in fine, and she is showing -2* of downward angle (with room to go up to massage the working angles of the U-joints). The turbo drain plugs on the Holley pan are really really really poorly placed.
I had to flatten the front of the dip stick tube to make it easier to get the assembly together. The rear most coil post on the valve cover got cut off a few days ago. The back of the cylinder head clears fine along the heater box, the heat shield needed a little tweaking on the corner behind the cylinder head. For reference the engine is setback ~1/2" (there is an insane amount of clearance between the oil pan and crossmember - you could fit a Big Mac in there).
These f*cking notches. No one ever mentioned needing these f*cking notches to clear the top two hex head bolts on the rear cover (note: Gen IV engines should have counter sunk SHCS that wouldn't require this mod). I discovered this when the top of the bellhousing wouldn't seat against the block - out comes Mr. Flashlight and low and behold there they were f*cking up my day. Out it all comes so I can lay under the car with a die grinder (erasing the witness marks) and cover myself with aluminum slivers. The ICT converter adapter bushing is in the back of the crank.
After that it went in fine, and she is showing -2* of downward angle (with room to go up to massage the working angles of the U-joints). The turbo drain plugs on the Holley pan are really really really poorly placed.
I had to flatten the front of the dip stick tube to make it easier to get the assembly together. The rear most coil post on the valve cover got cut off a few days ago. The back of the cylinder head clears fine along the heater box, the heat shield needed a little tweaking on the corner behind the cylinder head. For reference the engine is setback ~1/2" (there is an insane amount of clearance between the oil pan and crossmember - you could fit a Big Mac in there).
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Taking it easy today. Put a Walbro 450 on a stock Turbo Buick sending unit.
Popped all the wiring apart in the Spectra hanger, and due to the unique connectors being used I had to get creative upping the gauge to match the Walbro's. Little fancy work with a soldering iron solved that on the power and ground side.
Cut the base open to accept the 450's thick butt.
Chopped off any restrictions on the feed side (3/8") for full flow. Weird thing is Walbro supplies a 5/16" hose with the pump - but pump is barbed at 3/8". So I replaced their hose with a section of Gates submersible hose.
Clamped the pump to the hanger around the base. A couple of zip ties and tada.
Popped all the wiring apart in the Spectra hanger, and due to the unique connectors being used I had to get creative upping the gauge to match the Walbro's. Little fancy work with a soldering iron solved that on the power and ground side.
Cut the base open to accept the 450's thick butt.
Chopped off any restrictions on the feed side (3/8") for full flow. Weird thing is Walbro supplies a 5/16" hose with the pump - but pump is barbed at 3/8". So I replaced their hose with a section of Gates submersible hose.
Clamped the pump to the hanger around the base. A couple of zip ties and tada.
I could have told you a 2004r needs notches to clear the rear cover if you can go back in time and tell me that using a shcs put in backwards will hold the dipstick in place. I realized I had a Chev dipstick and a bop engine after bolting it together and have no real dipstick mount.
I was going to start working on the wiring... but then this happened:
Redesigned pretty much the whole thing to fit around a bunch of issues. I am pretty certain a flat hood will fit just fine.
Redesigned pretty much the whole thing to fit around a bunch of issues. I am pretty certain a flat hood will fit just fine.
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