MONTE CARLO "COPO" Monte Carlo SS - Turbosaurus Build (Swinging Dick Racing's c*ck got bent... she bounced a little too high & hard, & came down awkwardly)

[motorheadmike]

Having never notched a frame, the notch looks easy and no need for a kit. But the body clearancing is where the work comes AFAIC.

Mike, do you expect to be in far enough to hit the trunk hinges? It seems like you might be with a 30" tall tire (if yes, then PITA!!!)?

Real talk? Another inch of compression in the suspension and it is a trip to smash-town. It is tightest to the inner wheel well, quarter panel side. Which is why I plan to delete them from the equation.

I hope I can retain the trunk-side inner tubs to keep it looking stock. It's that COPO concept thing I started with.

Figure it is all going to look something like this:

And here's a maybe on the frame:

 

[motorheadmike]

If you plasma cut the rails out, couldn't you put the outside of one to the inside of the opposite side? Then gusset/reinforce the ends..

It is on the ideas list too.

 

[Turbo Zach]

I am with you on this idea. I also have been thinking about doing this to my high school car. 79 Monte. Some day. I am thinking about back-halfing it, but I do not want a Prostreet tire. I am very interested in how you go about it. Good luck to you.

 

[RabbitHoleSS]

If you plasma cut the rails out, couldn't you put the outside of one to the inside of the opposite side? Then gusset/reinforce the ends..

This is how was gonna do it before I chickened out. I kinda wish I woulda known more about this when I did my inner wheelhouses. Do you gain any clearance with just a notch and no inner wheelhouse mods.

This feels all too familiar. Stick with it and feel free to use a little artistic license.

I think I know what you were talking about when you posted that in my build thread. Im definitely looking forward to this next part of your build.

 

[motorheadmike]

So here's what I think I am going to need to do a basic correction on the suspension:

Pro-Launch Gold G-BODY with GRAND NATIONAL 10-Bolt Rearend

www.baselinesuspensions.com

Or my preference:

Raised Ear 9″ and 8.5 GM Kit - Trick Chassis

Trick Chassis' Raised Ear 9″ and 8.5 GM Kit corrects the instant center problem when swapping a raised ear 9″ ford rear end into a 78 to 87 G body car.

www.trickchassis.com

Both have a polyurethane bushing option, but I would prefer to have the articulation of heim joints as their are already polyurethane bushings in the differential ears. Truthfully, UMI roto-joints would be ideal.

My brother is pushing me towards this:

"G-BOX"™ Adjustable Upper Control Arm mount

G-BOX Adjustable Upper Control Arm mount

wildridesracecars.com

And this:

A&G Lower Control arm replacement mount

A&G Lower Control arm replacement mount

wildridesracecars.com

Ideal, yes. But, that is more cost and work than desired for the application/purpose of the car.

Thoughts?

 

[Tony1968]

What are you currently using for rear uppers? And couldn't you fab up those type of brackets and use something like UMI with roto joints?

 

[motorheadmike]

What are you currently using for rear uppers? And couldn't you fab up those type of brackets and use something like UMI with roto joints?

Stock boxed uppers with blown out rubber bushings.

I have very limited time due to family, work and school - so engineering my own solution isn't a prudent use of a limited resource.

 

[motorheadmike]

Ordered the boxes and arms from Trick Chassis, and got raped on shipping.

 

[Supercharged111]

Ordered the boxes and arms from Trick Chassis, and got raped on shipping.

Is that a bad thing?

 

[motorheadmike]

Is that a bad thing?

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I knew walking down the dark alley was dangerous, but I did it anyway...