What is the best way to rustproof a cylinder head before repainting it? I got my heads cleaned up. They had a little bit of rust on them. Due to the high temps, what works on the body, may not work on the engine. I am looking at Loctite Extend Rust Treatment. Any reviews on using that on the heads, or other recommendations?
Cylinder Head Paint and Rustproofing
- Thread starter Monte Cristo
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I've always just used the engine paint primer, followed by engine paint.
If not into painting yet, WD-40 works. Even light gun oil can work. Easy to clean off (gotta do a degreasing before painting anyways.)
Obviously clean as well as possible first but I always use an engine enamel for all steps with a primer first, then paint and finish with a clear coat and I always use the same brand for all 3 products. For engine enamel I prefer Duplicolor brand, but there are others that work well also.
Thank you for all of the responses.
The rust converters work by changing the rust (iron oxide) to regular iron which is black in color. It isn't steel, but has almost the same coefficient of heat expansion. I don't see how it could hurt anything. The problem is always keeping moisture away because the iron rusts faster than steel. So the more coats of paint the better.
The rust converters work by changing the rust (iron oxide) to regular iron which is black in color. It isn't steel, but has almost the same coefficient of heat expansion. I don't see how it could hurt anything. The problem is always keeping moisture away because the iron rusts faster than steel. So the more coats of paint the better.
From my experience, cheap engine paints lose their gloss with heat and often time burn off. I really like POR engine paint. It stay's glossy and is extremely durable. They sell a kit to prepare and paint rusty engine parts. Check out the link
http://www.tcpglobal.com/docs/POR-15_EnginePaintingKit.pdf
http://www.tcpglobal.com/docs/POR-15_EnginePaintingKit.pdf
Meaning that the paint didn't expand as fast as the metal underneath it, which is more reason to use a rust converter rather than an extra layer of paint.
POR rust preventive paint is different from most other rust converters. It locks moisture away from the metal exceptionally well. I didn't know how well it worked on the engine. Do you use that on exhaust manifolds or headers too? I would think it requires being quite careful not to get it into the bolt and spark plug holes. The engine paint then goes on top of the POR rust prevention. I am guessing that other brands of cheaper engine paint can top coat it as well. The top coat is not what locks out the rust with POR, it's just the finish coat.
I've used a lot of engine paints....With heat cycling none of them maintain the sheen like POR can. On an Olds engine, the spark plug wells always burn off....not with this product. All of these products have heavy solids...A small can will go a long way and remember not to get this stuff on your skin. It does not come off easy.
If you are painting exhaust manifolds POR offers this:
http://www.por15.com/POR-15-High-Temp_p_104.html
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