Determining what steering Box I have

[57 Handyman]

A few years ago, I purchased a close ratio Monte steering box. Since then, I've inadvertently mixed them with others that were laying around. Is the easiest way to confirm the ratios simply counting lock-to-lock rotations? Or is there a visual indication or something on the outside of the box that identifies the ratios? Lastly, what kinds of numbers should I see when attempting the lock-to-lock procedure?

Thanks for your help!

 

[69hurstolds]

2 1/3 to 3 turns lock to lock will be your 12.7:1 ratio box. 800 series with 4 bolt side cover. Don't go by casting numbers.

 

[57 Handyman]

Both of the steering boxes were close to 3 revolutions lock to lock. So, I guess either one is good.

 

[jadigen]

ok so i'm trying to figure out what i have in my two cars..

85 442 turns about 2.75 turns lock to lock. i assume thats a fast ratio right?

86 cutlass supreme turns about 3 to 3.25 turns lock to lock. is that a regular ratio box?

i thought there would be more of a difference between the two..

 

[69hurstolds]

There's not a tremendous difference between them, but you're basically turning the wheels faster and further with the fast ratio box, obviously, with the same amount of wheel turn. Which means you have more say in where the wheels go at a smaller turn of the wheel. You have to move the slushy box an extra quarter turn roughly to get to the same place if you're going all the way to the stop. Which takes time and effort. You go too fast on the ratio though, and you end up in a ditch if you sneeze. Faster ratio stock boxes are not a panacea, but why would you want the slushy box when you can go tighter for the same turn radius?

 

[jadigen]

sound good. not sure why but i just thought it would be more of a difference.. no doubt i'' swap them out in the future. steering pumps the same or are they running different PSI?

 

[69hurstolds]

Steering pumps and hoses are the same according to the parts books, except that between a Y engine pump and a 9 engine pump, the 442 has the 2 groove pulley and the Y engine only has one. You'll see the belt routing is different. So basically all you need to do is swap the gear and your existing hoses should bolt right in.

If you already have an 800 series in your cutlass, the 442 one will bolt right up. If you have the 600 series round top, you'll need to make sure to leave the pitman arm on the 442 box when you pull it and use it with your existing steering linkage. Hoses should bolt right in.

 

[jadigen]

both boxes look identical so i'm good there. i have the complete working 442 set up so i can change everything if need be.

 

[69hurstolds]

All you need to do is change the box to the 442 one, then. Keep the pitman arm with it because you need a puller to get it off anyway, and remove the steering connection, the hoses, the steering linkage from the existing pitman arm, loosen the 3 frame to box mounting bolts, then swap in the new box. Easy peasy. Sort of. If you run into an issue with rusty bolts on the frame bolts, it's going to be some long bolts. They sometimes rust out pretty bad.

If you do not get the right hardness bolt, IIRC, I think these are grade 8, don't mess around with this critical bolt. If the bolts you choose don't hold, it's a bad thing to have your steering box fall off on you down the road.

If you need the frame washers, they have sides cut into them to account for frame curvature. QTY: 3, GM p/n 14074908

 

[jadigen]

Thanks for the info guys. Much appreciated.

Right now I need the parts car moveable so I won't be pulling the box just yet.