I'd like to think that I have a halfway decent understanding of the A/C system on the Olds G-bodies. No expert, but I have successfully rebuilt, flushed, recharged, replaced, almost every single part of the system on several of the cars I've owned over the years.
I'm working into finally getting started on messing with the 85. My idea said to get it somewhat roadworthy and However, several years ago, I found that the system is super low on refrigerant and didn't kick on when running. When you press one of the schrader valves, it hisses a bit, so there seems to be something left, but not enough. There's evidence of some oil weepage around the front compressor seal, so I'm figuring that's where it, or at least most of it, went.
I've probably got about 22 pounds of R12 left, and that sh*t's made out of Unicorn golden poop. Don't want to waste it, but figured I got to ensure better sealing on these dumb azz R4 GM AC compressors. I have every single part to completely replace the entire HVAC system, but I figure I'll do that when it's time for the complete teardown and ressurection.
For the last 10 years or so, I've heard about the Air Duster cans changeover. Never gave it much thought before. Kinda blew it off and thought it was a disaster waiting to happen. But with the cost of R-12 out the roof, I started looking into it more, mainly for leak testing.
I researched it and ran across one video that made me figure I might go ahead and try it. What have I got to lose? Worse comes to worse it kills the system. The guy had this car he got from a junkyard, had no idea of the condition of the V5 compressor he had in the car, just that it had been converted to 134a at some point. He sucked it down, recharged it with Air Duster cans, and it blew cold. Big deal. But the convincing part is, he made another video 7 years later as a follow up. He had taken the car on several trips and the clutch was making noise and not working right, so he decided to put a brand new V5 compressor on it and a new accumulator. Spruced up the system and...recharged it with Air Duster. The video goes on to take the compressor apart and he went through it and it was surprisingly clean. During disassembly he found out why it was noisy. It was a remanufactured unit and wasn't a quality rebuild, and they cut the welds down on the pulley to clutch connection when they resurfaced it. That's where it broke.
7 years. From a junkyard recharge. Granted, he had to top it off about once per season or so, but it's still pretty impressive. I had since researched more and it seemed like when people actually took the time to do a proper evacuation and care in re-sealing the quirky R-4. Two of the most problematic areas that most already know about R-4 compressors is the case o-rings and the front seal leaking.
If treated just like a 134a retrofit, it supposedly seems to do an excellent job doing its thing, without the high head pressures. Has properties that match R-12 fairly close on the data sheets. Reason I even brought it up is last week I was cleaning out a closet and on the top shelf, I found a box with about four 12-oz cans of some of those Air Duster canisters. And this stuff is the pre-bitterant additive. Not sure if it would make a difference, but this is some pure 152a canisters. Never bothered to take any of that air duster refrigerant thing seriously, until now. I looked on the canisters and found it had a refrigerant in it, called R152a, or dioflourethane or some sh*t like that. I got to thinking at first I'd just use it to charge the system partially, fix any leaks, suck 'er down and if good, jam 3 lbs of R-12 in the system. Then I got to thinking - I got enough to use one can for leak testing, and 3 cans for a "full charge". Why not do a full ride experiment?
Another thing I found out is that the single pass condenser used in factory G-body systems is MUCH better for 152a conversions than 134a conversions. The amount of heat given up to condense is better for the 152a in the stock systems than the cross flow types. Plus, there's not too much complaints from people using the same stock orifice tube since the properties closely match R-12 performance. But yet a lighter charge. About 36 oz instead of 52 of R-12. Still will go by pressure.
I'm skeptical. And I will be until I see it for myself. But like I said, the system will be torn out completely at some point, so why not give it a whirl? There are some claiming 33 and 34 degree outlet temps driving around town. Which might have something more to do with the pressure cutoff switch on the accumulator as well. It needs to be adjusted about 3 lbs or so, based on some of the things I'm reading. And a change to POE. Probably not PAG. I heard it works ok with 152a, but it also would be better in a new, clean system that's never had mineral oil in it. I have read a lot of sludge stories about PAG and mineral oil not getting along.
The plan is to remove the existing factory hoses, but re-using them. Flush out the entire system. Put in new o-rings stem to stern, a new white stock orifice tube. A new accumulator, and tear apart and re-seal the existing compressor. Flush it all out while I'm in there. Then, stick it all back together, suck it and hold it, (which is opposite than your mom ) , and if good to go, charge in 3 cans then and see what happens.
There's no set time table for this since it's just starting into the planning stages, but this 152a conversion is relatively CHEAP (roughly 9 bucks per pound buying by the can) compared to 134a or R-12. So we shall see. Even if it breaks, it won't matter. But if I need a bit more, for about 7 bucks or so, I can get another can.
Willing to listen to experiences, or thoughts, or any other discussions on this. Here to learn and this is something different. I have noticed as well, you can't readily just buy a 30 lb can of 152a. I'm not worried about leaking through the hoses. I got a feeling a little add here and there won't be an issue.
Opinions?
I'm working into finally getting started on messing with the 85. My idea said to get it somewhat roadworthy and However, several years ago, I found that the system is super low on refrigerant and didn't kick on when running. When you press one of the schrader valves, it hisses a bit, so there seems to be something left, but not enough. There's evidence of some oil weepage around the front compressor seal, so I'm figuring that's where it, or at least most of it, went.
I've probably got about 22 pounds of R12 left, and that sh*t's made out of Unicorn golden poop. Don't want to waste it, but figured I got to ensure better sealing on these dumb azz R4 GM AC compressors. I have every single part to completely replace the entire HVAC system, but I figure I'll do that when it's time for the complete teardown and ressurection.
For the last 10 years or so, I've heard about the Air Duster cans changeover. Never gave it much thought before. Kinda blew it off and thought it was a disaster waiting to happen. But with the cost of R-12 out the roof, I started looking into it more, mainly for leak testing.
I researched it and ran across one video that made me figure I might go ahead and try it. What have I got to lose? Worse comes to worse it kills the system. The guy had this car he got from a junkyard, had no idea of the condition of the V5 compressor he had in the car, just that it had been converted to 134a at some point. He sucked it down, recharged it with Air Duster cans, and it blew cold. Big deal. But the convincing part is, he made another video 7 years later as a follow up. He had taken the car on several trips and the clutch was making noise and not working right, so he decided to put a brand new V5 compressor on it and a new accumulator. Spruced up the system and...recharged it with Air Duster. The video goes on to take the compressor apart and he went through it and it was surprisingly clean. During disassembly he found out why it was noisy. It was a remanufactured unit and wasn't a quality rebuild, and they cut the welds down on the pulley to clutch connection when they resurfaced it. That's where it broke.
7 years. From a junkyard recharge. Granted, he had to top it off about once per season or so, but it's still pretty impressive. I had since researched more and it seemed like when people actually took the time to do a proper evacuation and care in re-sealing the quirky R-4. Two of the most problematic areas that most already know about R-4 compressors is the case o-rings and the front seal leaking.
If treated just like a 134a retrofit, it supposedly seems to do an excellent job doing its thing, without the high head pressures. Has properties that match R-12 fairly close on the data sheets. Reason I even brought it up is last week I was cleaning out a closet and on the top shelf, I found a box with about four 12-oz cans of some of those Air Duster canisters. And this stuff is the pre-bitterant additive. Not sure if it would make a difference, but this is some pure 152a canisters. Never bothered to take any of that air duster refrigerant thing seriously, until now. I looked on the canisters and found it had a refrigerant in it, called R152a, or dioflourethane or some sh*t like that. I got to thinking at first I'd just use it to charge the system partially, fix any leaks, suck 'er down and if good, jam 3 lbs of R-12 in the system. Then I got to thinking - I got enough to use one can for leak testing, and 3 cans for a "full charge". Why not do a full ride experiment?
Another thing I found out is that the single pass condenser used in factory G-body systems is MUCH better for 152a conversions than 134a conversions. The amount of heat given up to condense is better for the 152a in the stock systems than the cross flow types. Plus, there's not too much complaints from people using the same stock orifice tube since the properties closely match R-12 performance. But yet a lighter charge. About 36 oz instead of 52 of R-12. Still will go by pressure.
I'm skeptical. And I will be until I see it for myself. But like I said, the system will be torn out completely at some point, so why not give it a whirl? There are some claiming 33 and 34 degree outlet temps driving around town. Which might have something more to do with the pressure cutoff switch on the accumulator as well. It needs to be adjusted about 3 lbs or so, based on some of the things I'm reading. And a change to POE. Probably not PAG. I heard it works ok with 152a, but it also would be better in a new, clean system that's never had mineral oil in it. I have read a lot of sludge stories about PAG and mineral oil not getting along.
The plan is to remove the existing factory hoses, but re-using them. Flush out the entire system. Put in new o-rings stem to stern, a new white stock orifice tube. A new accumulator, and tear apart and re-seal the existing compressor. Flush it all out while I'm in there. Then, stick it all back together, suck it and hold it, (which is opposite than your mom ) , and if good to go, charge in 3 cans then and see what happens.
There's no set time table for this since it's just starting into the planning stages, but this 152a conversion is relatively CHEAP (roughly 9 bucks per pound buying by the can) compared to 134a or R-12. So we shall see. Even if it breaks, it won't matter. But if I need a bit more, for about 7 bucks or so, I can get another can.
Willing to listen to experiences, or thoughts, or any other discussions on this. Here to learn and this is something different. I have noticed as well, you can't readily just buy a 30 lb can of 152a. I'm not worried about leaking through the hoses. I got a feeling a little add here and there won't be an issue.
Opinions?