Distributor replacement, ECM controlled?

[g0thiac]

Alright so I'm trying to decide on my 80's Caprice, on whether or not I should keep using the spark system that the ECM controls or simply go with a HEI with vacuum advance.

Basically, I want to keep my E4ME carburetor for right now, and save a bit of money. But I'm not sure what extent the computer is needed for this vehicle. I believe it has an external coil too, so does that mean I am using points? A little worried.

If I replace the dist and go with the current setup, I would use one that TBI setups have without the advance correct? Or should I just unplug the ECM fuse, get one that's vacuum operated and run it to one of the ports on the carb?

Thanks guys lol.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

The CCC computer system is all or nothing. If you run the E4ME you must also use the matching computer controlled dist and all of the sensors. The computer also controls transmission lockup, EGR, and several other functions. I highly recommend keeping the CCC intact.

In 1987 Chevy switched from coil in cap HEI to remote coil HEI. There are several design limitations in having the coil packed tight in the cap.

 

[Bonnewagon]

X2. You would need a carb and dizzy from the pre-CCC days, 1970's to '80. And they had better be dialed in correctly for your car. Are you fluent in Q-jet? Because as workable as they are, you need to know what you are doing. If it is working well, leave it alone.

 

[g0thiac]

The CCC computer system is all or nothing. If you run the E4ME you must also use the matching computer controlled dist and all of the sensors. The computer also controls transmission lockup, EGR, and several other functions. I highly recommend keeping the CCC intact.

In 1987 Chevy switched from coil in cap HEI to remote coil HEI. There are several design limitations in having the coil packed tight in the cap.

Ok, I will stick with the CCC provided my ECM has no problem in the future.

What kind of dist and coil should I go with? Something under $300 if that works.

 

[g0thiac]

X2. You would need a carb and dizzy from the pre-CCC days, 1970's to '80. And they had better be dialed in correctly for your car. Are you fluent in Q-jet? Because as workable as they are, you need to know what you are doing. If it is working well, leave it alone.

Definitely not fluent at all, other than just basic tuning with a screwdriver.

The carburetor works fine to my knowledge, but today when starting I was cranking but no start. Pretty sure it's not a fuel issue, unless it was flooded.

So I believe it's an issue with ignition, but even if it's not, the coil looks very old and the Remy distributor also looks aged as well, so I think it's a good idea to replace them.

Will test more when theres light out to work with.

 

[303'505rollin]

Put a new cap and rotor, maybe the module(with fresh dielectric grease) before removing the distributor

 

[g0thiac]

Put a new cap and rotor, maybe the module(with fresh dielectric grease) before removing the distributor

I will when the weather gets nice for sure. Any suggestions for brands or where to get reliable parts?

Also, I was happy to find out that the reason it wasn't starting wasn't spark but instead fuel.

The carburetor is getting gas, but I had to REALLY rev it and smash my foot to the floor, which isn't normal because it usually takes me two pumps.
Now I am pretty sure it's the fuel line, because when I decided to cut part of the old metal away, the fuel inlet had barely any metal for the rubber hose to clamp onto, so it's having air in as well.

That and probably the mechanical fuel pump needs replacing too. The sender unit also but for now it's not an issue.

 

[Bonnewagon]

Whoa- slow down. If it used to take two pumps and now you need to pound it, indicates an accelerator pump. An easy test, you take off the air cleaner, push the choke flap out of the way with a screwdriver, look down the throat of the carb, and work the throttle a few times. You should see a healthy squirt of gas exit the discharge ports. If only a dribble, or none, accelerator pump is not working. If you get the big squirt, look elsewhere. As for the fuel line, no rubber hoses welcome here. Get a real steel gas line. The fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb is positive pressure. So if the hose or line was leaking, it would leak fuel- not air. And to test the pump you disconnect the fuel line at the carb, point it at a container, and have someone crank the engine. Big healthy gushes of fuel should blast out. And while that fuel line is off, check the fuel filter in the carb and change it for a new one. That may be the culprit to this whole thing.

 

[g0thiac]

Whoa- slow down. If it used to take two pumps and now you need to pound it, indicates an accelerator pump. An easy test, you take off the air cleaner, push the choke flap out of the way with a screwdriver, look down the throat of the carb, and work the throttle a few times. You should see a healthy squirt of gas exit the discharge ports. If only a dribble, or none, accelerator pump is not working. If you get the big squirt, look elsewhere. As for the fuel line, no rubber hoses welcome here. Get a real steel gas line. The fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb is positive pressure. So if the hose or line was leaking, it would leak fuel- not air. And to test the pump you disconnect the fuel line at the carb, point it at a container, and have someone crank the engine. Big healthy gushes of fuel should blast out. And while that fuel line is off, check the fuel filter in the carb and change it for a new one. That may be the culprit to this whole thing.

Sounds good, and whats the best kind of line to use? I want something that can withstand the salt belt here, most premium product that will make the investment worth the spending.

Honestly I was planning to have my mechanic just do the entire fuel lines, which honestly is the reason I have the rubber hose in for now because the line wasn't leaking but it had enough rust near the intake, where if it did leak it wouldn't be a good day lmao.

 

[Bonnewagon]

Just an OEM steel line is fine. They lasted 40 years on our cars. If you want to wrap it something for extra protection, go for it. Can't hurt. Did you check the filter yet?