Doing blazer brake upgrade need some suggestions?

[mobileaudio25]

Im in the middle of swapping out my 80 malibu front brakes for a 2001 blazer setup. I have everything and have order drilled and slotted rotors from r1concepts.

While I'm at it I'm going to do some front end work because i believe it is original....

Do you guys use regular part store replacement upper/lower balljoints and tie rods or do you think there is benefit going with a performance part?

do you guys just run stock blazer hose or did you upgrade to a better hose?

do they make press in wheel studs so that I don't have to buy new lug nuts? my lugs are pretty expensive and kind of hard to find around...

I want the car to handle well I have jounce bars, f41 sway bar and gear box, rear sway bar, radiator cross bars, and 2 sets of bars under the hood that tie the body to the core support and firewall....


thanks, any other ideas or suggestions while I'm all torn apart would be appreciated.

 

[Texas82GP]

This page of my build thread details what I used and why......
https://gbodyforum.com/threads/space-city-1982-gp-build.55501/page-5

 

[403Olds]

I went with tall ball joints, upper and lowers, definitely would recommend them. If you got it apart, might as well throw some Moog springs in there too. I used the braided gbody lines when I put the blazer brakes on. Altogether, it made one heck of a difference!

 

[ssn696]

I think the knurl is different between the M12 metric and 7/16" lug studs. Check out RockAuto.com to see if this piece of info is in their pick list or INFO tabs. Compare the data from both years. If it's your lucky day, the 7/16" Malibu studs use a bigger diameter and you can drill the hubs to fit.

 

[mobileaudio25]

I went with tall ball joints, upper and lowers, definitely would recommend them. If you got it apart, might as well throw some Moog springs in there too. I used the braided gbody lines when I put the blazer brakes on. Altogether, it made one heck of a difference!

Did you buy moog or just oe taller ball joints? What's the purpose of the taller ball joints?
As far as the moog springs did you go with a lowering spring or factory replacement? I know my springs are sagging and I don't want it to sit any higher than it does... I like the slightly lower look

 

[mobileaudio25]

This page of my build thread details what I used and why......
https://gbodyforum.com/threads/space-city-1982-gp-build.55501/page-5

So you did moog problem solver upper and lower balljoints or just problem solver bushings in the control arm? Are there big benefits to replacing the bushings in the control arm?

 

[mobileaudio25]

I'm going to be running stock control arms upfront. I have blazer spindles and brake upgrade (not drop spindles) .

I have original worn front springs shocks and want to replace them. I like the way that my car sits is like it to be an inch lower. What springs and shocks do you recommend?

Tall or short uppers and lower balljoints ? I want to make sure all of my geometry is good to go, running 17in creager ss wheels.

Thanks!

 

[Texas82GP]

So you did moog problem solver upper and lower balljoints or just problem solver bushings in the control arm? Are there big benefits to replacing the bushings in the control arm?

The ball joints were from the problem solver product line. I don't remember RockAuto offering anything else as far as Moog goes. The bushings I went with should tighten up the suspension some without being as firm as polyurethane. They are supposed to have the anti-aging quality that urethane has. To my mind if you go to the trouble to tear the front end down the bushings should be replaced. Especially if they are original.

 

[Texas82GP]

On springs, you could go with the Moog 5660's like I did if you like a firm spring (eliminate front end float) and then trim them to achieve your desired ride height. I believe 1/4 coil trimmed will drop it an inch.

 

[UNGN]

Tall lower ball joints lower the car a little, reduce bumpsteer a little and improve the suspension geometry/camber curve.

Tall uppers improve the suspension geometry/camber curve.

With 17" wheels you should have no issues running either tall lowers or uppers.

Last time I bought these, Summit had proforged .5" taller for about $50/balljoint. - worth the extra $15 over stock length.