Any easy way to remove a threaded insert when you put JB weld? A stepped bit works for opening the those Chevy brackets. Hopefully it will work where I reinforced where I shouldn't have.
Dr Olds Burnout Machine
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Flat jaw vise grips and a hammer won the day. The stepped drill bits worked nicely and the brackets now sit tight and the belt alignment is much better. Test fire this morning.
Test fire, bled the power steering. Runs fine, no belt walk. I do hear the serpentine system but I am not used to no exhaust leaks and the tiny peanut cam in the 260. Not super noisy, just not silent. Now fitting the 70 rad will take a little saws all action.
I got the 70 rad in, I cut the bottom off the support where it necks down on the passenger side and it just fits. I will take a video tomorrow of the serpentine setup in action.
It does kind of sound like it but shouldn't be. New alternator, new A/C clutch and bearing. The idler and tensioner turn smooth.
Congrats!!! I listened to it thru my TV and surround sound.
It does have a weird sound, but it doesn't sound like a bearing to me.
Here is the video of mine running.
It does have a weird sound, but it doesn't sound like a bearing to me.
Here is the video of mine running.
Larry, I think the belt is too tight. I will keep that belt as an emergency spare. For serpentine length, the last 3 numbers are the length in inches correct? So my 950 is 95", correct? I can get a 955, 95.5" and a 967, 96.7" belt in town. Not sure 1/2" will reduce tension enough, way tighter than my Dakota and even tighter than the less 30000 KM belt on my Challenger. I know the rope method. I was originally going to go with a 960 belt, I should have. I spun everything by had the only bad sound was a squeak from my brand new Remy alternator but turned smooth. I may need to check it again.
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