EDIT: Question about lug knurl size.

[307 Regal]

---------New Edit-------------------

I'm finally getting around to ordering parts. I'm looking for 12mm / 1.5 pitch studs, but I'm very confused as to what would be the correct knurl size. The more I look the more I see numbers from .501 up to around .580, and it's different every time I find a new thread. Does anyone know the correct knurl size for a metric ('83 and up) rotor?



----------------------------------Original Post---------------------------------

So I recently had a wheel fall of the car. She's really banged up but I think she's mostly okay. Luckily I was 15 seconds from my destination, going about 20 mph. The lug nuts appear to have gotten loose and fallen off. I only found two of them. In 8 years I've never had that happen to me before. The wheel was destroyed but no lugs were broken. Just damaged threads.

Anyway, I'd like to get some new lugs to press into the rotor which is still fine. (The drop spindles kept the rotor from hitting the ground. ) Since I race the car pretty hard, I would like to get some nice lugs (ARP?) but the question is, how many times can lugs be re-used? Would I be able to press them back out and re-use them when it comes time to change rotors? Any input is welcome, and thank you.

 

[565bbchevy]

I changed out my stock metric studs with ARP 1/2" diameter studs to match my rears on the 9".
I had to drill the rotors out on my drill press to match the diameter needed for the knurl. I used my hydraulic press to remove them and my impact to install them using some washers and a opened end lug nut.
I would think the ARP's would be fine when it comes time to reinstall them on a fresh set of rotors as long as there is no damage to them.

 

[64nailhead]

I hate to ask a painfully obvious question, but, were you using the correct lug nuts? Are you aware that G-bodies were originally built with standard threads studs and somewhere in the 80's they were changed to metric. And yes it is possible to get the wrong nut onto a lug - especially with an impact.

To answer your question, epensive wheel studs are not really required until the power and/or speed gets pretty stiff.

 

[pontiacgp]

It's always a good thing to torque your wheel nuts, if they are the wrong nut you'll have a problem torquing them. Also were the wheels you had on your car hubcentric?

 

[-83MONTESS-]

I'd get some good ARP studs and some good open ended lug nuts. Press the stock studs out and the new ones in. I never liked the fancy closed style or whatever you wanna call them lug nuts. Im never sure whether they're torqued correct or just bottoming out against the end of the stud. I'll take less appealing lug nuts and the peace of mind anyday.

You got lucky man. That coulda been way worse both to you and the car.

 

[Hoopty_Mike]

I've run some crazy spacer and wheel combos and never had a problem. I prefer everything to just be clean, no lubricant or anti seize other than the face of the wheel/spacers to keep it from sticking to the surface. Snugged up on jack stands and torqued to 100 ft lbs on the ground. I have ran into the metric stud with a standard lug though. Make sure that isn't your issue. I also will only run open lugs. Also gives me an idea if i'm running out of stud for whatever i'm doing.

 

[307 Regal]

...were the wheels you had on your car hubcentric?

Yes. They were the stock T-type aluminum wheels.

I hate to ask a painfully obvious question, but, were you using the correct lug nuts? Are you aware that G-bodies were originally built with standard threads studs and somewhere in the 80's they were changed to metric. And yes it is possible to get the wrong nut onto a lug - especially with an impact.

To answer your question, epensive wheel studs are not really required until the power and/or speed gets pretty stiff.

I'm fairly positive. I was aware of the change over to metric so I try to shop accordingly. I never use an impact on my lug nuts. And in the 3-4 years these rotors have been on the car I've had no issues threading the lug nuts on.
There's been some speculation on whether or not the threads "stretched." Earlier that month I was autocrossing at an airport on medium compound slicks for two days in a row on a decently sorted-out camber curve. I also use very very thin (but not hubcentric) wheel spacers on the front so my "race wheels" (S10 Xtreme wheels) don't contact the steering knuckle / tie-rod end on the spindle.

But if the threads weren't damaged then I assume maybe it was the hour+ drive home on the highway after putting my street tires back on. (No spacers for the street tires.) Maybe they just got loose after that.

I'd get some good ARP studs and some good open ended lug nuts. Press the stock studs out and the new ones in. I never liked the fancy closed style or whatever you wanna call them lug nuts. Im never sure whether they're torqued correct or just bottoming out against the end of the stud. I'll take less appealing lug nuts and the peace of mind anyday.

You got lucky man. That coulda been way worse both to you and the car.

I think I'm in a position to agree with all of this.

 

[UNGN]

Yes. They were the stock T-type aluminum wheels.


I'm fairly positive. I was aware of the change over to metric so I try to shop accordingly. I never use an impact on my lug nuts. And in the 3-4 years these rotors have been on the car I've had no issues threading the lug nuts on.
There's been some speculation on whether or not the threads "stretched." Earlier that month I was autocrossing at an airport on medium compound slicks for two days in a row on a decently sorted-out camber curve. I also use very very thin (but not hubcentric) wheel spacers on the front so my "race wheels" (S10 Xtreme wheels) don't contact the steering knuckle / tie-rod end on the spindle.

But if the threads weren't damaged then I assume maybe it was the hour+ drive home on the highway after putting my street tires back on. (No spacers for the street tires.) Maybe they just got loose after that.

I think I'm in a position to agree with all of this.

I had the same thing recently happen on my T-type with LS1 brakes. It was a combination of the 1/8" spacer (to keep the caliper from rubbing the wheel) and a caliper that came unbolted.

Mine came off at 60 mph but 12" brakes are big enough to roll on. The wheel blew off so fast there was zero body damage. It stopped about 1/2 mile after the car (about 3/4 mile total after separation)

Solution was loctite the caliper bolts, grind all the high spots off the caliper face so they don't rub the wheels and NOT use spacers again, ever. (Rear 16X8 GTA's in front). For the tie rods to clear the wheels, I've rounded them pretty good with a dremel. I'm running tall lower ball joints, too.

 

[MrSony]

I had the same thing recently happen on my T-type with LS1 brakes. It was a combination of the 1/8" spacer (to keep the caliper from rubbing the wheel) and a caliper that came unbolted.

Mine came off at 60 mph but 12" brakes are big enough to roll on. The wheel blew off so fast there was zero body damage. It stopped about 1/2 mile after the car (about 3/4 mile total after separation)

Solution was loctite the caliper bolts, grind all the high spots off the caliper face so they don't rub the wheels and NOT use spacers again, ever. (Rear 16X8 GTA's in front). For the tie rods to clear the wheels, I've rounded them pretty good with a dremel. I'm running tall lower ball joints, too.

Welcome to the forum.

 

[307 Regal]

*Bump for new question*