i know most you you guys have gotten rid of the emissions sh*t on your motors. i was wondering how hard it is to do, and if it would be easier to take all the emissions sh*t and the computer out completely
emissions delete
- Thread starter bigbadcuddy
- Start date
- Status
Well depending on your motor, distributor and what you exactly remove your car isn't going to run efficient.
Best thing to do is make sure your AIR tubes, CAT and EGR arn't clogged, these problem areas greatly affect performance. Simply installing new or cleaning your tubes and an EGR valve will have a noticable difference in performance.
Also, performance is not going to increase greatly by removing the emissions on a 307... you won't have the proper Air/Fuel mixture and distributor curve without the computer. You are going to have to find an HEI distributor and a carb of that era to compliment it and make sure you tune it correctly so as not to run rich or lean otherwise you are going to have horrible gas millage and performance. Most people remove these components when they upgrade to a 350 or 403. You can still run the computer on a 350 with a computer from an 88 Cutlass and a recurved E-prom chip which is available if you look around.
Best thing to do is make sure your AIR tubes, CAT and EGR arn't clogged, these problem areas greatly affect performance. Simply installing new or cleaning your tubes and an EGR valve will have a noticable difference in performance.
Also, performance is not going to increase greatly by removing the emissions on a 307... you won't have the proper Air/Fuel mixture and distributor curve without the computer. You are going to have to find an HEI distributor and a carb of that era to compliment it and make sure you tune it correctly so as not to run rich or lean otherwise you are going to have horrible gas millage and performance. Most people remove these components when they upgrade to a 350 or 403. You can still run the computer on a 350 with a computer from an 88 Cutlass and a recurved E-prom chip which is available if you look around.
I agree. Everyone thinks the emissions equipment is what holds the engine back in these cars, when it is that the engine itself sucks. The car is designed to run with all this crap. Removing it and tuning the car to run without it would maybe yield you 5-10 hp at the crank-if you're lucky. A better option to improve performance is to put a rearend with a better gear ratio in the car. Most of these cars came with 2.41 axle which, while fine for steady state cruising on the highway or land speed racing, is horrible in a car that sees any kind of city driving. The easiest one to get cheaply is the 3.23. It was used in some high altitude V6/3speed applications. I got mine from a 4 door 1983 Buick Regal with the 2bbl 3.8 V6/Th-200 and paid $50 for it. It probably dropped my 0-60 time by 3-4 seconds when I put it in! Now that was with a V8 swap already done (Chevy 350), but the 307 should still have a noticeable improvement. However, you should also know that the Olds 307 is a losing battle without a lot of work. Even the HO 307 that was in the 442 Cutlass, with 3.73 gears only managed a 0-60 time of 9.8 seconds, with 30 more horsepower (rated) than your base 307.
Remember: not all 5 liter V8 engines are created the same. 305's and 307's don't have the potential of a Ford 302 or a Chevy 302. The bore diameter is too small, and most are saddled with heads that are anything but performance oriented. This is why most enthusiasts who play with Small Block Chevys use a 350. It is the cheapest SBC with a decent bore size. The Ford and Chevy 302's use the same 4 in bore as a SBC 350 too. This is needed to unshroud the valves in a 2 valve engine as the maximum diameters of both valves added together cannot exceed the bore diameter in a wedge head engine. If you had a 4 valve engine (I.E Nissan VH45DE), you could run a smaller bore and still get more than enough air flow A Hemispherical head engine also allows more valve area, by canting the valves in a V formation instead of running them side by side, thus theoretically permitting total valve diameter greater than the bore size.
Remember: not all 5 liter V8 engines are created the same. 305's and 307's don't have the potential of a Ford 302 or a Chevy 302. The bore diameter is too small, and most are saddled with heads that are anything but performance oriented. This is why most enthusiasts who play with Small Block Chevys use a 350. It is the cheapest SBC with a decent bore size. The Ford and Chevy 302's use the same 4 in bore as a SBC 350 too. This is needed to unshroud the valves in a 2 valve engine as the maximum diameters of both valves added together cannot exceed the bore diameter in a wedge head engine. If you had a 4 valve engine (I.E Nissan VH45DE), you could run a smaller bore and still get more than enough air flow A Hemispherical head engine also allows more valve area, by canting the valves in a V formation instead of running them side by side, thus theoretically permitting total valve diameter greater than the bore size.
well, this is a daily driver. im not really lookin for speed or power, just a better running car that gets better milage. i do realize the 307 is a sh*t of a powerplant, but its what i got and i do have the money to put a 350 in it, nor do i want to, the car isnt really worth it in its present shape. my brother had an 86 regal with a 307 in it. he did absolutly nothing to the motor but take the emissions crap off it, and he got a little more power out of it and s few more mpgs untill our father blew the motor.
88hurstolds said:
I bought a 85 cutlass what was taken off the computer & it's not running right at all. I want to hook it back up to the comp but all the wires are cut & i know it will be too much trying to get all the wires right. If I get the distributor from the junkyard, what car can I get it from? I still have a chevy 350 with an edelbrock carb on it, can i use that one? If not what car can i get the carb i need from?
Just the computer?veltboy314 said:
Does it still have the CCC quadrajet?
Does it still have electronic advance?
If so, then you need a non ccc carb, vacuume advance dist, and you'll need a switch set up for your tq converter lockup if it hasn't been done already.
That will correct the issues, well it will need to be tuned properly.
Tryin to undo it will just be a tragedy.
yea i realize that, i have a 600 cfm carb for it, and an hei dst. with vaccum advance, but i didnt know about the torque converter switch
- Status
Similar threads
