Engine offset?

[ToJo]

86 cutlass supreme has had a few engine and trans swaps over the years. Each time I swap out a engine or transmission I fight the driver side bell housing bolts, even when I remove the trans cross memeber and lower the rear of the engine.
Originally had a olds 307 and I swapped in a 283 and th350. I moved the stock motor mounts forward (if I remember correctly, it’s been 15 years or so) and bolted them down. I can’t remember if the 307 was offset to the driver side or not. I’m guessing no because the column shifter linkage was in a bind at the trans and had to tweak it to work. Now the car has a Vortec 5.7 and I’m doing a Muncie swap. It seems like I need to cut or beat the hell out of the driver side trans tunnel for the linkage to fit. Does anyone know if there is offset to the driver side from the factory and if so how much?

 

[Ribbedroof]

G bodies used a specific set of components, including a throwout fork that has a bend "down" in it, presumably to get the linkage away from the floor/tunnel. As i recall, the hole for the fork in the bellhousing is also lower than the "typical" GM bellhousing.

 

[pontiac guy]

The hole is lower and the fork is offset and points down some. It's available repop and there's a few correct Chevy bellhousings available on the site. I like to source my stuff from Russ at 4 speed conversions. That's his jam. He has all the stuff to do it absolutely correct exactly as it was done by GM. Last I checked he was out of bellhousings. I'm told you can also use the 82-83 F body 4 speed housing with that fork. It looks like it will work, but I've never done it. It's also pretty light duty compared to the factory g body one. Warning: hedders that will clear the factory linkage is a challenge. I'm sure a chevy guy can tell you which ones will fit. Hedman I think but I don't run Chevys so verify.

 

[ToJo]

Thanks for your reply. Sorry I wasn’t more specific in my description. I’m using a hyd throw out bearing set up. Mainly my concerned is about the Muncie shifter linkage rods hitting the tunnel. And was wondering why the driver side bell housing bolts are so close the side of the tunnel.
I thought GM cars had the engines centered or offset to passenger side slightly.

 

[ssn696]

Over the years and many Chevy installs, I’ve discovered that the rubber inserts in most aftermarket Chevy motor mounts have to be levered ‘up’ to get the second motor mount bolt through it. Since they are at an angle, the engine weight tends to push them down and together. Not sure if this applies to your problem at all, but if you are looking for 1/4”, this could be a factor.

 

[ToJo]

Thanks for all your replies. I’ve been doing some research and rolled under the car to look things over. The trans output shaft is almost centered in the frame, maybe 1/8” difference.
Found out there is a tall engine mount bracket on passenger side, short on drivers side.
And years ago it was hit in the drivers front fender. checked the body alignment and it’s almost 7/8” to the passenger side at the front of the car.
I’ll swap out the passenger motor mount bracket and center the body as I replace the body bushings. Hopefully that gets me straightened out.