How do I know the efe exhaust heat valve is not working properly? And what exactly connects to it...v8 307 motor 86 Cutlass
Eve valve
- Thread starter Froggys86
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Should be a vacuum line coming from the carb to a TVS, then from the TVS down to the vaccumm motor for the EFE valve.
Follow the line from the EFE valve itself back to the TVS port on the rearmost driver's corner of the intake. Remove vacuum hose for the EFE from the TVS port temporarily. Apply vacuum to operate the valve actuator. If the valve closes, good. Release vacuum and valve re-opens, good.
Nobody really cares if it doesn't work (sticks open) unless you live in a cold climate. It's only there to push the driver side exhaust through the intake port via the center two exhaust ports to aid in quick heat up to help warm up the incoming charge to atomize the fuel better and faster. It's not closed for long as once you hit 70 degrees (81-83), or 84 degrees (84-up) on the TVS, it starts to move. Once the TVS warms up, it moves the internal plug to vent the EFE valve actuator which fails to the open position. An emissions thing.
This is a picture of it from the bottom side. Typically, Olds uses 2 bolt hole versions, Chevies use 3. If the lever assembly and plunger is pulled in when no vacuum applied, it's stuck in the closed position. They spend the majority of their lives open, so if you bet money for which way it will stick, most likely it will be stuck open.
Orientation on your exhaust for 307. You can't just yank it and toss it unless you make up for the valve not being there on the stock 307 exhaust manifold due to it's a gasket between EFE valve top and the exhaust manifold. Even if failed open, you cold just plug the vacuum line and it won't hurt anything.
Nobody really cares if it doesn't work (sticks open) unless you live in a cold climate. It's only there to push the driver side exhaust through the intake port via the center two exhaust ports to aid in quick heat up to help warm up the incoming charge to atomize the fuel better and faster. It's not closed for long as once you hit 70 degrees (81-83), or 84 degrees (84-up) on the TVS, it starts to move. Once the TVS warms up, it moves the internal plug to vent the EFE valve actuator which fails to the open position. An emissions thing.
This is a picture of it from the bottom side. Typically, Olds uses 2 bolt hole versions, Chevies use 3. If the lever assembly and plunger is pulled in when no vacuum applied, it's stuck in the closed position. They spend the majority of their lives open, so if you bet money for which way it will stick, most likely it will be stuck open.
Orientation on your exhaust for 307. You can't just yank it and toss it unless you make up for the valve not being there on the stock 307 exhaust manifold due to it's a gasket between EFE valve top and the exhaust manifold. Even if failed open, you cold just plug the vacuum line and it won't hurt anything.
Watch the actuator arm when the engine is started. The valve should close when the engine is started cold; the actuator link will be pulled into the diaphragm housing. If the valve doesn’t close, shut the engine off and take the hose off the EFE valve. Use a vacuum pump and put 10 in. Hg (69 kPa) of vacuum on it. The valve should close and stay closed for at least 20 seconds (you will hear it close). If the valve opens in less than 20 seconds, replace it. The valve could also be seized if it doesn’t close; you could try some type of spray to free it up, but If the valve doesn’t close when vacuum is applied or when it is lubricated, replace the valve.
If the valve closes, the problem isnt with the valve. Check for loose, cracked, pinched or plugged hoses, and replace as necessary.
Okay going to check all that and when I drive/ accelerate I hear like somewhat of a fluttering noise perse.....could that have something to do with the efe system and does take a bit longer to warm up like sputters in a wayFollow the line from the EFE valve itself back to the TVS port on the rearmost driver's corner of the intake. Remove vacuum hose for the EFE from the TVS port temporarily. Apply vacuum to operate the valve actuator. If the valve closes, good. Release vacuum and valve re-opens, good.
Nobody really cares if it doesn't work (sticks open) unless you live in a cold climate. It's only there to push the driver side exhaust through the intake port via the center two exhaust ports to aid in quick heat up to help warm up the incoming charge to atomize the fuel better and faster. It's not closed for long as once you hit 70 degrees (81-83), or 84 degrees (84-up) on the TVS, it starts to move. Once the TVS warms up, it moves the internal plug to vent the EFE valve actuator which fails to the open position. An emissions thing.
This is a picture of it from the bottom side. Typically, Olds uses 2 bolt hole versions, Chevies use 3. If the lever assembly and plunger is pulled in when no vacuum applied, it's stuck in the closed position. They spend the majority of their lives open, so if you bet money for which way it will stick, most likely it will be stuck open.
Orientation on your exhaust for 307. You can't just yank it and toss it unless you make up for the valve not being there on the stock 307 exhaust manifold due to it's a gasket between EFE valve top and the exhaust manifold. Even if failed open, you cold just plug the vacuum line and it won't hurt anything.
View attachment 215574
Sounds like an exhaust leak somewhere. Which could be ANYwhere. Does it still have A.I.R. pipes sticking out of the heads? The check vavles on those sometimes give up the ghost and leak too and sounds like a fluttering fart.
Yes, the smog pump should move freely. It's an air pump, so it will provide very slight resistance, but if it's hanging up in spots, it's likely on its way out.
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