Fouled Plugs. Burning Oil.

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jacobdavis1979

G-Body Guru
Feb 18, 2011
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Guys i need help again lol. Recently my 350 sbc ive had to pull my plugs after each trip cuz they are fowled with oil like wet. If its ran then shut off and sat for 20 or so minutes and started again it smokes for a few seconds then clears right up. And if i hold the throttle about 2000 rpm i notice a glitch like a tiny missfire every couple seconds. And i gotta change my oil all the time cuz it starts smelling like gas. Motor only has about 10,000 miles or so since it was built but only started this like a few months ago. Can anyone help please? lol thanks guys
 
Wet plugs, and oil that smells like gas, could mean that its running way too rich, in which case you'd have to lean it out, by changing the rods, or rods and jets. It could also be flooding, due to a stuck float, or improper float height adjustment. Do you have another carb that you could try? Also, are your plugs of the correct heat range. Too cold could cause the plugs to foul. Plugs from a fuel injected engine would be too cold for a carbed engine, which doesn't run as efficently. White or blue smoke, on start-up could also indicate that the valve stem oil seals are worn, but you mentioned that its a fresh engine. Were your heads reconditioned? If the smoke is black, it's your carb.
 
i considered the stuck float and flooding on my 750 q jet i had. So i bought a brand new intake and a 600 edlebrock carb and same problem. I dont know anything about heatrange but my plugs are the accell header plugs for carbed small block gapped at 30 with the gapping tool and they always turned into a pretty brown color before this problem started. Heads were refurbished by a machine shop during the build 3 years ago. And smoke is white.

Can blow by and no pvc valve be part of the problem?
Or improper valve lashing? cuz ive been paranoid about that since i put the motor in 3 years ago
 
No PCV can definitely richen up your mixture, and improper valve lash, if it's off by a lot, will affect how efficently that mixture is burned. Both of those problems are an easy and cheap fix though.
 
il get a pcv soon. Valve lashing is what scares me though i re did it like 10 times cuz i keep thinking ive screwed it up lol

i dont know if this even matters but i think im gonna do a compression test
 
A stock sbc pulls about 20 inches of vacuum at idle. Thats a lot of suction. If you plug off your PVC port thats a lot of air thats taken out of the air/fuel mixture. A carb comes from the factory calibrated to work with a PCV. To operate without one, you would definitely have to recalibrate the carb, to compensate for the lesser amount of air being pulled in.
You can quickly check your valve lash, with your valve cover off, and the engine running, by very slowly backing off the adjustment nut, until you hear it start ticking. That should take about half a turn. Then slowly tighten it, just until the ticking stops. Then add half a turn of preload, and you should be right on the money. That should give you zero lash, plus a half turn of preload. It can be messy though, doing it with the valve covers off, and its best to do it according to the book, with your engine off, but its a way to check your adjustment, seeing you're not sure if you got it right, or not. I like to take the plugs out, so as to not put too much torque on the balancer bolt, when I'm turning the engine over.
 
The pcv on my car was welded closed & no problem but I took it off & reinstalled it & no visible exhaust smoke after that but I also lost hp & the car was sluggish after that. Either spend a few hours studying the entire emissions system to do it right; or just eliminate it - there is no in between!
 
i pulled the plugs again today and it is for sure not gas on them its oil. And its every plug this time.
I had my cousin check my lashing he said it was perfect but he re did it anyway cuz of my paranoia. Drove it around for an hour and still runs the same. Its not underpowered or anything doesnt hesitate it runs perfect. But that tiny glitch while holding it higher than idle is barley noticeable but i know it has somthing to with oil getting to the plugs. And the white smoke clears immediately but its embarrassing.
Vaccuum is about 15 but i have a hotter cam than stock.
 
I recently pulled my buddies 350 with same senario. Ran perfect etc. turns out the valve guides and seals where shot. Had the heads redone not a problem since.
 
Is there a way to tell if there bad before I pull it apart again?
 
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