PST bushings are great for a driver. You need 4 upper control arm bushings and 4 lower control arm bushings. They have Tie Rods, too.
For the rest of the suspension, I would recommend for a "Daily Driver" to make it drive more like a modern car:
In Front you'll need:
Springs (
AL LS1 or V6):
Moog 5658 (put in first measure ride height, then removed and cut to perfect ride height after everything else put on)
Springs (
Iron SB/AL head Big Block):
Moog 5660 (put in first measure ride height, then removed and cut to perfect ride height after everything else put on)
Springs
(Iron BB): Moog 5662 (put in first measure ride height, then removed and cut to perfect ride height after everything else put on)
Shocks:
Bilsteins
Control Arm bushings:
PST polygraphite Lower Control Arm bushings (4) (uppers, too (4) if you re-use stock upper control arms)
Maybe Upper Control Arms:
G-body parts UB Machine Tubular will work fine with 17X8's, could have interference with smaller diameter 8" wheels and tall ball joints.
Bump stop:
ZQ8 GM 15956547, Dorman 31064
ball joints:
Proforged 1/2" taller Lower 101-10048 and Upper 101-10020
sway bar and Sway bar bushing:
Hollow 3rd gen F-body - Junkyard (34-36mm doesn't matter)
steering improvements: fast ratio box, u-joint steering shaft:
12.7 Ratio Steering box (from F41 car), '93-95 Jeep Grand Cherokee steering shaft or modified Astro Van Shaft, New Inner/out tie rods if more than 60K miles.
Front End Alignment:
Target .5 Degree Negative Camber, 5 degree Caster (or as much as can be done) and 1/16 - 1/8" Toe in.
If you want bigger brakes in front:
Spindles:
1998-2003 2wd Blazer - Junkyard
Brakes:
1998-2003 2wd Blazer dual piston 11" - Junkyard
For the frame:
Jounce bars From a Cutlass:
Junkyard.
Grand Prix bar:
Junkyard
adding the missing lower Frame mounts:
Replace any Flat washers with 457915 Pink Lower Bushings
In Back:
springs:
I would leave the stock and see how it handles
sway bar:
A "pro touring" style rear sway bar
shocks:
Bilsteins
control arms:
Stock, with new bushings if needed
This would be for a driver. For something tracked I would do some things differently (like stiffer springs, solid lower control arm bushings, etc), but the above wish list will make the car drive/handle good (better than every stock "classic muscle car I have ever driven) and with good tires, not be embarrassing at an autocross.
A '78 will have SAE lugs unless they have been swapped so if you go to Blazer brakes in front, you may want to swap the studs in the rear axle to M12-1.5 so you don't have 2 different lug nuts
its for a 78 malibu but I think that there has nothing change thru years
