Fuel gauge still giving me grief

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CamaroAdam73

Royal Smart Person
Cars an 88 Monte carlo SS. Untill now the gauge did nothing, i checked the power lead in the cluster for the gauge and got nothing. However the ground was good, and i had continuity between the tank and gauge so i know that wiring harness is in good shape.

So too narrow things down i pulled the gauge and wired power/ground straight from the fuse panel/frame (temporary just for testing) and a temp lead from gauge to sending unit.

The gauge powers on and reads above fuel all the time, i have a spare fuel gauge i tried and same results so i know it's not the gauge.

I tested the ground between TANK and frame and got NO continuity. I'm pretty sure this is my problem, if i fix this ground and STILL have the same problem, is my sending unit bad??


Trying to make this quick because i don't have internet access at my house, i have to drive 30 miles to use internet.
 

darbysan

Master Mechanic
Apr 3, 2007
287
10
18
Las Vegas, NV
Re: fuel gauge

The sender is a 0-90 ohm rheostat. If you hook up a voltmeter to the input line, you should be reading somewhere between 0 and 90 ohms, depending on how much fuel is in the tank. , If you get an "Open" reading, the the sender is broken and needs replacing/repairing ( assuming your line from the sender to ground is good).
 

Neill

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Mar 7, 2014
114
98
28
Roanoke ,VA.
My fuel gauge started to act erratically on my Camino.I pulled the sender/float unit from the tank.There were,as I remember,three or four sheet metal tabs you need to unbend with a sharp putty knife and pliers-don't worry-the tabs are very 'forgiving' and will probably not break off when you bend them back.The ethanol we love so much... and why not use the lowest form of humor-sarcism-actually there are two lower forms,i.m.o...helps corrode the variable resistance 'scale' and its' adjuctive 'slider'.So get inside the box and clean all of the sliding contact parts. I used a very fine steel wool and small old distributor point file for the slider arm contact-just a quick wipe and don't bend it.The float will still usably be a-ok,i.m.o.,but the small fiber spacing /and or retention washers--float arm to actuator box on unit--will split--I just shored them up with SEAL-ALL from what? --EGLECTIC PRODUCTS? -READILY AVAL.from hardware and building supplies--no prolomo. Or buy new washers-I was stranded--years ago.I do believe 10% ethanol not only rust the inside of our gas tanks and is not particularly appreciated by our Rochesters-- but fear the most serious problem is the leeching out of the rubber fuel line elastomers causing dried out and splitting fuel lines that were formally adequate but now require upgrading for ethanol fuel--10% and up.From personal experiece I would start,like really soon,with any rubber fuel line from the pump to carb.Please don't ask me how I know.When theres' time I would like to discuss O.E.M. pickup socks v/s pickup screen filters -same location--these ethanol problems can all be addressed-- and if your like me--one at a time..
 
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