Fuel Lines: To rubber or not to rubber

[KndyBludRedMC]

Just ordered a fuel tank and sending unit for my 78 MC 305v8.
Has a newer carb and fuel pump so I figured I'd change out the fuel lines too.
I'd like everyones opinion on which are the easiest and smartest to install rubber or hard fuel lines. THANKS!

I'd appreciate any other tips you might have also!

 

[joesregalproject]

Don't run rubber from the tank to all the way to the motor. It's not safe and I'm fairly certain it won't pass inspection (if you are subject to them). Also the ethanol will eventually eat into them and gum up your carb with dissolved fuel line. I ran all rubber for a while just to keep the car driveable while it was in project state, but I probably wouldn't do it again, even temporarily. Run hard lines. Yeah, it's a bit more of a pain in the *ss, but it'll be worth it. I prefer useing regular coated mild steel lines. Stainless is too difficult to work with and the cunifer (copper/nickel) ones are too expensive and they kink fairly easily. The main disadvantage to the coated steel lines is they will eventually rust especially if you are driving the car in all types of weather. But any if the hard lines are better than rubber.

 

[565bbchevy]

Apparently there is a rumor going around that I prefer stainless braided lines but I am not sure where people are getting that idea.

 

[Michael Watts]

What condition are your stock lines ? And are you going to make any upgrades engine wise that you might have to go to a bigger diameter lines. I would go if you can afford it is go with hard line and use braided line in the flexible areas.Using Adel clamps to hold them in place.

 

[KndyBludRedMC]

What condition are your stock lines ? And are you going to make any upgrades engine wise that you might have to go to a bigger diameter lines. I would go if you can afford it is go with hard line and use braided line in the flexible areas.Using Adel clamps to hold them in place.

Stock lines look terribly rusted. Everything else fuel related will be new so i figured would be a smart idea to change fuel lines out to. No i'm not planning on any major engine upgrade besides a headers and duals. Original motor with only 70k miles on it. Id like to keep it original (for the most part). Thanks for the tips!

 

[-83MONTESS-]

If you don't wanna mess with the added expense/hassle of braided lines and fittings I would run rubber from the tank to a steel line mounted to the frame. Then from that line to the fuel pump on up to the engine. Get some 3/8" tubing, bend it to run along the frame starting at the passenger fender well all the way to above the rear end. Use rubber insulated clamps every couple feet or so. Put a bubble flare on each end and call it good. It's essentially what they did from the factory.

I did that except I used braided hose and fittings instead of rubber.

 

[565bbchevy]

For a mild or stock application you could use 3/8" Cunifer tubing and flare each end and use rubber fuel injection hose or braided hose as your flex hose

 

[fleming442]

They make prebent stainless for GNs, too. I went Teflon AN on mine. Both are about $200.

 

[pontiacgp]

When I made my new lines I used cunifer and ended the lines just in front of the gas tank so I can disconnect or connect the lines before I remove or after I install the tank.

 

[Bonnewagon]

Steel lines- no exceptions. Especially in the engine compartment. I cringe every time I see rubber fuel lines snaking all around a hot engine. If the body is on the frame then it will be almost impossible to follow where the factory ran the lines at the rear because they did it with the body off. I bought a roll of steel line and made single lengths for as far as I could. I got around around those difficult areas by using unions to make the connections. Once secured I covered all lines with spray undercoat.