Fusable link

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Street Sweeper22

Greasemonkey
Nov 18, 2017
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my blower motor would not work on high so I put a new switch in the dash and that fixed it. A month later it quits working so I replaced the relay and come to find out it was the fusable link. All the wiring seems like it is in good shape. Has anyone had this problem or have any ideas on what could have cause it to blow?
 

Ribbedroof

Comic Book Super Hero
Supporting Member
Jan 4, 2009
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Wellston, OK
I have seen MANY g-bodies with a melted blower harness connection. Blower motor draws quite a bit on high, and there are only 2 fuse links on these cars to handle all the electrical load during operation. Add some leaked oil and 30+ years of environmental exposure, sure fire recipe for failure.

In my case, just r&r-ing the starter was enough movement to sever the link. I moved all those connections up to a remote starter relay, which makes servicing the starter much easier in the future.
 
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airboatgreg

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 2, 2016
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It is imperative that you use the proper size fusible link. The fusible link protects the wiring. Ribbedroof is right on. Using a relay takes the load off a switch and uses less wiring.
 

Street Sweeper22

Greasemonkey
Nov 18, 2017
233
91
28
I have seen MANY g-bodies with a melted blower harness connection. Blower motor draws quite a bit on high, and there are only 2 fuse links on these cars to handle all the electrical load during operation. Add some leaked oil and 30+ years of environmental exposure, sure fire recipe for failure.

In my case, just r&r-ing the starter was enough movement to sever the link. I moved all those connections up to a remote starter relay, which makes servicing the starter much easier in the future.
Do you have any pics of your set up and where does that link fail? From the starter to the relay is a good distance.
 

Street Sweeper22

Greasemonkey
Nov 18, 2017
233
91
28
It is imperative that you use the proper size fusible link. The fusible link protects the wiring. Ribbedroof is right on. Using a relay takes the load off a switch and uses less wiring.
Will auto zone know what gauge I need or will they just throw me what ever they have on the shelf?
 

airboatgreg

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 2, 2016
2,863
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Rule of thumb is 2 sizes smaller than the wire your are protecting. If you have a 10 gauge wire you would use a 12 gauge fuse link. It will LOOK about the same size as the insulation is different. It is made to burn and be visible after it does so. There has been more than a discussion on this forum regarding this.
 

airboatgreg

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 2, 2016
2,863
3,112
113
As I recall, and someone please correct me if I am wrong a fuse link cannot be any longer then 8"? 6"?
 

Ribbedroof

Comic Book Super Hero
Supporting Member
Jan 4, 2009
4,865
6,892
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Wellston, OK
No pics, but it's pretty simple. My setup is more a result of what I had on hand than a master plan, but this is what I did.

I ran a short battery cable from the battery to the Ford relay, which I mounted to the inside of the fender behind the coolant reservoir. I had a short OE GM ground cable from a late model something that has the battery under the rear seat, has the nice insulated battery terminal end, and a factory termination designed to bolt to the chassis on the other end which was a perfect fit for the relay stud. Then a battery cable (Ford style with terminals to go over a stud on both ends) to the starter from the other side of the relay. I extended the 2 power leads (with fuse links) and starter energize wire to run along the cowl by the A/C box over to the relay. The wire I used to extend the main power leads were left over from an LT1 Roadmaster harness that I reworked and had factory-installed fuse links in them.

At the starter, I used a piece of 12 gauge solid copper wire crimped and soldered to appropriately sized ring terminals to make the connection from battery cable stud to solenoid stud. I see that there is a stamped steel piece available to do this, but I have been running this setup almost daily for real close to 2 years.

IMO, a major benefit to this setup is that it removes wiring from the very close proximity to the exhaust. In my case, a prior owner/mechanic had left the metal conduit that carries the wiring to the starter loose and it was actually laying against the exhaust. It also eliminates fumbling around with the start wire and those little tiny nuts during a starter replacement.
 

Street Sweeper22

Greasemonkey
Nov 18, 2017
233
91
28
No pics, but it's pretty simple. My setup is more a result of what I had on hand than a master plan, but this is what I did.

I ran a short battery cable from the battery to the Ford relay, which I mounted to the inside of the fender behind the coolant reservoir. I had a short OE GM ground cable from a late model something that has the battery under the rear seat, has the nice insulated battery terminal end, and a factory termination designed to bolt to the chassis on the other end which was a perfect fit for the relay stud. Then a battery cable (Ford style with terminals to go over a stud on both ends) to the starter from the other side of the relay. I extended the 2 power leads (with fuse links) and starter energize wire to run along the cowl by the A/C box over to the relay. The wire I used to extend the main power leads were left over from an LT1 Roadmaster harness that I reworked and had factory-installed fuse links in them.

At the starter, I used a piece of 12 gauge solid copper wire crimped and soldered to appropriately sized ring terminals to make the connection from battery cable stud to solenoid stud. I see that there is a stamped steel piece available to do this, but I have been running this setup almost daily for real close to 2 years.

IMO, a major benefit to this setup is that it removes wiring from the very close proximity to the exhaust. In my case, a prior owner/mechanic had left the metal conduit that carries the wiring to the starter loose and it was actually laying against the exhaust. It also eliminates fumbling around with the start wire and those little tiny nuts during a starter replacement.
Hey bro I really appreciate the info. It’s not a big deal right now but in a couple of months it will 110 outside in the shade and there ain’t no shade lol
 
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