CURRENT 6.0/4l80E swap parts = $$$$

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81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,639
13,542
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Western MN
Heres a ton of good info.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/20-ls1-intake-manifolds-tested/

Yes, the fabbed intake makes 25hp more at peak but is down 20hp average from 3k to 7k and down 30ft lbs at 4k (ouch)

The fabbed intake is
Peak Power: 587 hp at 7,100 rpm
Peak Torque: 470 lb-ft at 5,500 rpm
Ave HP (3,000–7,000): 425.6 hp
Ave TQ (3,000–7,000): 442.8 lb-ft
TQ at 4,000 RPM: 439.5 lb-ft

The TBSS style intake is
Peak Power: 562 hp at 7,000 rpm
Peak Torque: 497 lb-ft at 5,000 rpm
Ave HP (3,000–7,000): 444.4 hp
Ave TQ (3,000–7,000): 464.6 lb-ft
TQ at 4,000 RPM: 469.5 lb-ft
 
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motorheadmike

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Nov 18, 2009
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Motorhead Mike, why is this a bed list? I put this on here to get input from people who have done 6.0/6L80 swaps before and I'm months out so I can maximize my build/budget. I'm either going to have machine work done to the heads or get better ones and upgrade the cam and valvetrain. The rebuild kits are factored in as a worst case if the motor is hurt somehow. I am definitely upgrading the trans and torque converter. Again, the degree of rebuild will be determined upon an internal inspection.

I don't know? Guess I just woke up and felt like being an ******* by steering you away from complete and utter disappointment. My bad.

I am going to back off until you outline some concrete goals for this build. And no, 1000eleventybillion horsepowers isn't a goal.

So far it sounds like you want to build a poorly running truck.
 
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Wraith

Royal Smart Person
Jan 13, 2013
1,599
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Always a favorite article.

Certainly not worth the money when the Edelbrock shown after is $587 and made:

Peak Power: 593 hp at 7,000 rpm
Peak Torque: 474 lb-ft at 5,700 rpm
Ave HP (3,000–7,000): 431.6 hp
Ave TQ (3,000–7,000): 448.3 lb-ft
TQ at 4,000 RPM: 438.7 lb-ft

But I would barter that the smaller 90mm throttle body increased velocity making it more efficient. But of course a $2500 set of CNC heads can make all those intakes look good.
 
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Northernregal

Sloppy McRodbender
Oct 24, 2017
3,359
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Red Deer, Northern Montana territory
I don't know? Guess I just woke up and felt like being an ******* by steering you away from complete and utter disappointment. My bad.

I am going to back off until you outline some concrete goals for this build. And no, 1000eleventybillion horsepowers isn't a goal.

So far it sounds like you want to build a poorly running truck.

I believe you are referring to lama thrusts not horsepower. Lol

My swap is tentatively planned for about 6 months from now. So I'm trying to get out in front of this to eliminate surprises down the line. Yes I know I will need a tune and trans tunnel mods. My car is already equipped with an electric fuel pump. The only potential problem with that is possibly not enough pressure for an EFI. That is something I'll have to look into but the system is already in place. I also already have a Run Cool 3" aluminum radiator with electric fan. I already have a Jegs cross member. I added the intake manifold because I'm, at the least, having a performance cam and valve train and opening up the heads along with decking them to get the compression up a bit. I didn't think the 80mm TB and stock injector truck intake would work well with the new combo. Is anyone running an upgraded LQ4 intake on a higher performance engine? What mods were used? I looked at the Holly oil pan and I went with the Muscle Car pan due to cost I believe. Motorhead Mike, why is this a bed list? I put this on here to get input from people who have done 6.0/6L80 swaps before and I'm months out so I can maximize my build/budget. I'm either going to have machine work done to the heads or get better ones and upgrade the cam and valvetrain. The rebuild kits are factored in as a worst case if the motor is hurt somehow. I am definitely upgrading the trans and torque converter. Again, the degree of rebuild will be determined upon an internal inspection.

Ok. I’m all for helping a brother out.

Got a few questions so we can get you tuned in and on point.

1: what motor are you starting with. Year, model, head castings, VVT/DOD?
2: what are you using the car for? And be real, some really smart guys here that will help you optimize for that goal.
3: do you have access to a tuner or local dyno service? It will make a difference.
4: what is your level of skill/comfort doing these mods? None of it is difficult and tooling will always be cheaper than labor if you have the time to do it.
5: what do you have with the donor powertrain? Harness? Pedal? That sort of stuff.
 
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FastCraig

Master Mechanic
Sep 11, 2017
407
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I don't know? Guess I just woke up and felt like being an ******* by steering you away from complete and utter disappointment. My bad.

I am going to back off until you outline some concrete goals for this build. And no, 1000eleventybillion horsepowers isn't a goal.

So far it sounds like you want to build a poorly running truck.
My goal for this swap. 400 to 450 HP, anytime I want driver. You said it is a bad list without saying why so I asked why. I am asking for ideas and input. This is an initial list and not a unchanging list. I already made an edit on the torque converter based off of
I believe you are referring to lama thrusts not horsepower. Lol



Ok. I’m all for helping a brother out.

Got a few questions so we can get you tuned in and on point.

1: what motor are you starting with. Year, model, head castings, VVT/DOD?
09 2500 HD work truck. Have not checked casting numbers. Completely stock.
2: what are you using the car for? And be real, some really smart guys here that will help you optimize for that goal.
Main mode of transportation with occasional displays of speed. I don't make a habit of beating on my vehicles.
3: do you have access to a tuner or local dyno service? It will make a difference.
There are a few builders and tuners who specialize in LS motors in my area.
4: what is your level of skill/comfort doing these mods? None of it is difficult and tooling will always be cheaper than labor if you have the time to do it.
I will do some of the work. Mostly taking apart and reassembling the non engine and trans parts. I have a guy for engine and trans.
5: what do you have with the donor powertrain? Harness? Pedal? That sort of stuff.
Pedal is DBW. Truck is my current DD.
 

Northernregal

Sloppy McRodbender
Oct 24, 2017
3,359
12,826
113
Red Deer, Northern Montana territory
My goal for this swap. 400 to 450 HP, anytime I want driver. You said it is a bad list without saying why so I asked why. I am asking for ideas and input. This is an initial list and not a unchanging list. I already made an edit on the torque converter based off of


Pedal is DBW. Truck is my current DD.

Ok. What year?
 

Northernregal

Sloppy McRodbender
Oct 24, 2017
3,359
12,826
113
Red Deer, Northern Montana territory
2009 2500 HD WT, 2 wheel drive.

So you should have DOD or VVT, 823 heads and the good 4 bolt intake, and an e38 ecm (I think) Your horsepower goal is super easy and you should have enough injector to do it, should be 30lb injectors.

You will need a VVT/DOD delete (comp cams sells one) Cam sprocket for a 3 bolt conversion with front cam sensor (GM performance parts)PAC 1218 springs (summit or amazon) and a set of LS7 lifters (Rockauto). I would do an Elgin 1839p (aka sloppy stage 1 from eBay) cam, perfect for your setup, or an 1840p if you want a roughish idle and a little more up top.

Don’t touch the heads. You have square ports. You also shouldn’t need trunion upgrades unless you want to.

Converter in the 2400-2600 range should be lots. Or run stock, it’ll work with the 1839p cam.

I went with the Holley mounts, crossmember oil pan and headers. Fitment was excellent. They don’t have a 6L80e crossmember option so you might have to modify the one you have.

Take the pump out of your truck and mount it in the cars tank, upgrade the soft lines to efi lines and upgrade the wiring to 16ga minimum. Or Walbro 255, probably easier.

The rest is tuning and install.
 
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L92 OLDS

Comic Book Super Hero
Mar 30, 2012
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This price list also doesn't include any labor or assembly costs.

Schoenfeld LS swap header, engine mount kit. $403.46
Muscle Car deep oil pan. $211.74
Trutech 6L80E Stage 1 master rebuild kit. $645.76 (basic rebuild without steel for about 1/3.)
PATC Power Raptor 2800 stall converter. $399.00
Eagle Street/Strip Rotating Assy. $719.99**
Chevy Performance Hot Cam. $562.65 **
A Team 102mm fabricated sheet metal manifold drive by wire. $699.99 (could retain truck 80mm intake but don't think it would work well with head work and cam.)
High Impedence 60lb injectors. $313.01
Rebuilt floor shift steering column. $449.00 (currently have column shifter)
Lokar 6" sport shifter TU/TD. $349.99
Machine work on heads. $400.00**
TOTAL. $5173.83

2 years ago I swapped a L92 6.2 / 4L80 with E38 ECM into my Olds 442. It has been by far the best modification to the car to date.
Dyno at the wheels was just under 400 whp (approximately 480 crank) Only mods were a TSP cam, headers and a tune.
I kept VVT for a broad torque curve. The car idles with a very slight lope. I haven't been to the track yet but expect 11's in the quarter.
Here's where I would go with your project:

Holley LS swap mounts
Holley LS swap transmission crossmember
Holley stainless exhaust system with band clamps. They make the factory MCSS version for your car.
Holley LS swap AC bracket (not dirty dingo plates)
Holley LS swap headers (very nice piece) or if you're willing to risk fitment issues then go with brand B
Find a good used 4L80 and sell the 6 speed. Add the Transgo HD2 shift kit. - $500 trans $100 for the kit
With a good converter you don't need 6 speeds and your tunnel project will hack the car up.
Circle D 2800 stall 245 pro series torque converter $900 (Note: DONT buy an e cheapo converter. You'll be sorry)
Factory truck intake or LS3 intake and accessories
Factory injectors - your truck is flex fuel capable so the injectors are larger - no issues with duty cycle
Factory L92 heads - no need for head work with your power goal
Cam kit of your choice (cam, lifters, pushrods, seals, locks and retainers) $700
I suggest keeping VVT. If not then buy the LS2 timing chain kit with cover.
Base tune without dyno - $250. Another $250 for Dyno tune.
Keep the E38. You will need a T42 transmission controller (found on many FWD cars in the salvage yard)
Make your own harness
Cold air intake with LS3 style MAF
Walbro 225 pump. Make your own hotwire kit
GN or Monte Carlo 4.3 pump hanger
If your 6.0 has DOD you will need new lifters
You will need a new gauge cluster for VSS output on your transmission






http://www.circledspecialties.com/4l80e-pro-series-245mm



1542734208747.png


https://www.texas-speed.com/p-260-tsp-l99-vvt-camshaft-package.aspx
1542734374319.png
 
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Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
Apr 3, 2015
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Lots of good advice in here.
 
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