gettin a buick 455

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joe_padavano

Royal Smart Person
Sep 13, 2006
1,151
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Northern VA
creepin cutty said:
well i just bought the buick 455 so i guess i'ma have to get some v6 mounts...
any year i should be lookin to get? :D
thanks

creepin cutty said:
but what year should i get 70, 71, 72 ect..?
does it matter??
thanks guys!! :D

What happened?

Unless you've got a hardon for a Buford motor, the Olds 455 is still a bolt-in...
 

creepin cutty

Apprentice
Nov 16, 2006
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SEE I ALREADY PURCHASED IT FROM SOME GUY THAT HAS MANY OF THESE BUICKS FOR CHEAP AND HE WANTS TO KNOW WHAT YEAR I WANTED...
I WOULD OF LIKE A OLDS MOTOR BUT THE BUICK IS A GOOD PRICE WITH transmission...
SO IS YEAR AN ISSUE?
 

Chevyman85

G-Body Guru
Oct 25, 2006
594
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Bonney Lake, WA
The year shouldn't matter. Anything '72 and up might have some emissions equpiment on it, but other than that they should be the same.

Joe would be the guy to ask on that one! :D
 

joe_padavano

Royal Smart Person
Sep 13, 2006
1,151
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Northern VA
Chevyman85 said:
The year shouldn't matter. Anything '72 and up might have some emissions equpiment on it, but other than that they should be the same.

Joe would be the guy to ask on that one! :D

Actually, 1971 was the year that automakers lowered compression to accommodate low-lead gas. On the other hand, starting in 71 the heads had hardened valve seats. Starting in 73, EGR was required by the feds, resulting in more complex emissions controls (read: vac lines and carb ports) and ignition timing was retarded. Bottom line is that a 71-72 motor will give you hardened seats, minimum emissions controls, and about 8.5:1 stock compression.
 

Floydsbuick

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Dec 10, 2006
34
1
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Western PA
Check out www.v8buick.com for more Big Block Buick info. The peak power was the 1970 Stage 1 455. Compression cuts began in 1971. But sometime 'round 73 the oil pick up grew in diameter, as did the passages. Timing cover improved oiling as well. I'd say they are all great engines to start with, but DO NOT run one without an oil gauge. Oiling is the failure prone part of the BBB.
 

Brandotheamazing

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jan 29, 2007
6
0
0
Just built one, know quite a bit i think

Hey, later blocks (75-76) are stronger, higher nickle content, the heads from those are junk tho. throw them out, or tie them to a chain and use them as an achor, get some earlier heads 70-72, almost the same, 70's had a slightly smaller chamber, but with machine work the others will be the same. Stage one valves are a good plus, they run about 140 for the whole set, then you have to have your machine guy work the heads, dual valve springs. Get a nice set of ross pistons depending on what compression you want. (just built an 11-1 motor) got most of my stuff from Poston (www.postonbuick.com) get the rods recond, make sure crank is good. have everything checked.

If you're looking to just buy a running motor, go with the earlier ones nothing later than 73, cuz then you're just adding weight, not power.

- if i struck anything wrong here, call me out on it, i'm not an expert, just built my first, but have spent a lot of time with buick guys, and took advice from all of them, mostly one guy who has had success with buick motors, and knows them very well.

hope it helps.
 

Brandotheamazing

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jan 29, 2007
6
0
0
oiling

OH, there are a lot of oiling mods that can be done to make the system work, and work, and work. Check V8buick, it's where i got a bunch of my info. but you do have to pick and choose what you do, because some of the guys say one thing, while other say not to do it, and to do another thing..... i say call tony at poston and ask him what to do, depending on the build you plan.
 
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