headers

Status
Not open for further replies.

44whoo

Apprentice
Jul 2, 2009
54
0
0
11378
i have a 86 442 soon to be 455 powered and i am looking at headers and w/z manifolds, so far i know that the hooker headers wrap the frame and limit steering,the kooks cost alot and the w/z drop right on.so far the 455 is in pieces but when back together i hope to be looking at about 475 hp at the crank.the use of the car will be 85% street and 15% at englishtown,any thoughts will be appreciated.
 
Not only do Kooks cost a lot, but you also have to buy an expensive mini-starter as well...

I went with the Hooker headers when I put the 455 in my 442.

Buy them uncoated. Then test fit them and make sure they fit the way you like it, and then get them ceramic coated.

At the shop I used to work at, I would always shake my head when people would bring in pre-coated headers.
Then I'd smile sadistically as I pounded away on them with a big ol' hammer when they didn't fit right... :lol:
 
For a build like that, I'd go with the W/Z's and call it a day. I wouldn't even mess with the Hookers unless it was to cut and reroute the tubes so everything gets tucked inside the frame.
 
Heres my thought, if header manufacturers can build a SBO header that doesnt go outside the frame, why cant they build a 455 header like that too? Its wider at the top yeah, but wouldnt it just be the same as a SBO header thats 1 inch taller and more of an angle to compensate for the wider motor? That hole $600 for 455 headers, and $250 for a 350 header kinda bugs me.
 
81cutlass said:
Heres my thought, if header manufacturers can build a SBO header that doesnt go outside the frame, why cant they build a 455 header like that too? Its wider at the top yeah, but wouldnt it just be the same as a SBO header thats 1 inch taller and more of an angle to compensate for the wider motor? That hole $600 for 455 headers, and $250 for a 350 header kinda bugs me.

Well, your also paying for quality fitment. I have yet to run into a SBO header that actually fits without doing some sort of modification. Denting tubes, etc.

Whereas my 2" primary Kooks headers dropped right in. My question has always been, if Kook's can build a 2" primary header to fit a big block in a G-body without hitting ANYTHING, why can't these companies making 1-3/4" headers for the small block Olds get them to fit properly???

Now the best fitting SBO headers would come from American Racing (so I've heard) but again, your looking at $600+ headers (I think they may be closer to $900).
 
FE3X CLONE said:
81cutlass said:
Heres my thought, if header manufacturers can build a SBO header that doesnt go outside the frame, why cant they build a 455 header like that too? Its wider at the top yeah, but wouldnt it just be the same as a SBO header thats 1 inch taller and more of an angle to compensate for the wider motor? That hole $600 for 455 headers, and $250 for a 350 header kinda bugs me.

Well, your also paying for quality fitment. I have yet to run into a SBO header that actually fits without doing some sort of modification. Denting tubes, etc.

Whereas my 2" primary Kooks headers dropped right in. My question has always been, if Kook's can build a 2" primary header to fit a big block in a G-body without hitting ANYTHING, why can't these companies making 1-3/4" headers for the small block Olds get them to fit properly???

Now the best fitting SBO headers would come from American Racing (so I've heard) but again, your looking at $600+ headers (I think they may be closer to $900).


Paying $600 for the BBO headers wouldnt annoy me so much, but they go outside the frame. Ive heard that old flowtech SBO headers fit good, but the new ones dont. Dont understand why you would make your headers to fit worse. Im assuming theres some sort of tube cost/final price that cant go up/engineering kinda thing.
 
I had hooker headers when my 83 had a 455 in it and they fit fine. The tube going outside of the frame doesn't bother me too much simply because mine has seen about 200 street driven miles in the last 3-4 years or more. Mainly track time.
HOWEVER.... The hooker headers for the small block chevy (I know I know I am b*st*rd now...LOL) are some of the biggest pieces of sh*t I have ever seen. I have had 2 different sets and will NEVER buy another set for a small block Chevy in a G-body.
 
I'm running the Headman Headers for a sbc in my cutlass, they actually fit pretty well. The drivers side basically slipped right in from the top. The passenger side took a little massageing of one primary tube to clear the starter, and a mini starter is pretty necessary. Best bet for the passenger side is to have the front end up high on jack stands and bring it in from underneath. Get it into place, have a buddy hold it up while you get the starter bolted in, the extra wiggle room makes it alotta easier.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor