Heads, valves and rocker issue

[spidereyes455]

Are you still using the stock locking rocker nuts? They are usually only good for a couple of adjustments. The locking crimp can wear out and they will no longer hold tight and begin to loosen up. Just a thought.

 

[Reim]

The 305, and I have a couple of them, is what I call a small motor. You won't have much luck with a high lift cam but a longer duration cam that comes in at about the same lift but holds the valves open a little longer will give you some more bottom end to work with. They usually come described as "RV" cams for the application they typically fill but I have used both ISKY and ENGLE variants and liked what they did The power band on them is around 1500-5000 and they are done by 5500 at the most.

Just as a Q., here, are your rocker studs pressed or screw in? Pressed in studs can pull or rise out of their bosses under some kinds of high lift situations. Might be useful just to measure the length of the rocker stud that is visible just to make sure none have "risen" from the grave. It is possible to pin studs but that is a machine shop exercise.



Nick

Nick they are pressed in. I’ll check the length of those.

If they are backing out due to having these cams in there this 305 might meet its destiny as a boat anchor. I like these engines. The car has sat for 3 of the 4 years we have owned it. If my son does not pick up his game I’ll sell it an get another car for myself. I am on a mission to get this car back on the road.

 

[Reim]

Even with oil in the lifters this method works. I've used it after installing new cam shaft and lifter sets as well as after installing new oil seals. What is nice after setting them all to zero lash (Just touching) I normally go 1/2 turn on all and the adjustment seems dead nuts on. Worked real well for a neighbor and the 383 stroker in his Chevelle, he had 4 collapsed lifters that after we did the 1/2 turn past zero we ran a compression check and found the dead cylinders.

I'll be waiting on the burnout video!

Hey this car does NOT have limited slip unfortunately so it will be only one wheel…😂

 

[64nailhead]

As far as the valve adjustment here is a link to a YouTube video from Ellison's Machine shop that I have used many times. Never had any issues with loose or tight valves with a hydraulic cam using this method.

Nice method, imho a PITA with the motor in the car. But if this works for you, then stick to it.

E O I C works works on every engine regardless of pushrod, overhead cam and every style lifter and rocker except those dang diesels with an extra hump on the exhaust lobe for the engine brake.

I see Mr. Ellison isn't a fan of EOIC, but it works. - EVERYTIME.


Reim Regarding some of your comments. You need to pull the push rods and rockers and put a good inspection on them. The rockers in the area that ball of the pushrod rides and the pushrod balls. Attach some photos if you're not sure about what you're looking at. You could have damaged most anything running the valves out of adjustment - everything needs to be looked. Inspect the valve stem tips and the keepers - be sure that there aren't any marks on either that look out of place.

Lastly, when adjusting valves (after you get past when to adjust each individual valves) is the twist method and jiggle method. Depending on who you talk to, you'll hear that one is superior over the other. My take on that is that I use both.


Your comments about big cam and 305 and issues that develop and what you've heard is all hogwash. The parts are going to to tell if you have the valves adjusted correctly. It will take a giant cam, or aftermarket lifters and rockers to cause a problem. If you believe that your cam is WAY big and it idles at 1000rms or less, then it's not big - it's mild to medium. I wish you were nearby, then I'd offer you some assistance and resolve the valve adjustment BS in an hour.


Do you know what the E O I C method is and understand why it works on all engines?

 

[Reim]

Nice method, imho a PITA with the motor in the car. But if this works for you, then stick to it.

E O I C works works on every engine regardless of pushrod, overhead cam and every style lifter and rocker except those dang diesels with an extra hump on the exhaust lobe for the engine brake.

I see Mr. Ellison isn't a fan of EOIC, but it works. - EVERYTIME.


Reim Regarding some of your comments. You need to pull the push rods and rockers and put a good inspection on them. The rockers in the area that ball of the pushrod rides and the pushrod balls. Attach some photos if you're not sure about what you're looking at. You could have damaged most anything running the valves out of adjustment - everything needs to be looked. Inspect the valve stem tips and the keepers - be sure that there aren't any marks on either that look out of place.

Lastly, when adjusting valves (after you get past when to adjust each individual valves) is the twist method and jiggle method. Depending on who you talk to, you'll hear that one is superior over the other. My take on that is that I use both.


Your comments about big cam and 305 and issues that develop and what you've heard is all hogwash. The parts are going to to tell if you have the valves adjusted correctly. It will take a giant cam, or aftermarket lifters and rockers to cause a problem. If you believe that your cam is WAY big and it idles at 1000rms or less, then it's not big - it's mild to medium. I wish you were nearby, then I'd offer you some assistance and resolve the valve adjustment BS in an hour.


Do you know what the E O I C method is and understand why it works on all engines?

Hi Nailhead. Nice name assuming it is the famous Buick Motors of the 60’s. Ah, the 1965 Riv’s…my favorite.

I am not familiar with the E O I C method. I’ll check it out. Yeah, your right about checking everything out. The heads really need to go to a machine shop since we just replaced the guides, lifters and keepers. My son will be over the house tomorrow and we’ll do that. Hopefully, all is well since we have not ran it much.

The cam we bought the car with was a Lunati and we took it out because 2 of the rockers actually busted. Are you saying that the rockers busted due to the previous owners improper valve adjustment? This is the problem buying a car that has been modified by others that do not know what their doing? We were going to drop in another engine but son has lost interest and now I am just trying to get it to run properly.

 

[Reim]

Are you still using the stock locking rocker nuts? They are usually only good for a couple of adjustments. The locking crimp can wear out and they will no longer hold tight and begin to loosen up. Just a thought.

Spider, yes we got new nuts and keepers. Probably need to get another set. I appreciate the input. I am hoping the adjustment goes better and the pushrods etc all check out. We need to get this Monte back on the road.

 

[Reim]

Nice method, imho a PITA with the motor in the car. But if this works for you, then stick to it.

E O I C works works on every engine regardless of pushrod, overhead cam and every style lifter and rocker except those dang diesels with an extra hump on the exhaust lobe for the engine brake.

I see Mr. Ellison isn't a fan of EOIC, but it works. - EVERYTIME.


Reim Regarding some of your comments. You need to pull the push rods and rockers and put a good inspection on them. The rockers in the area that ball of the pushrod rides and the pushrod balls. Attach some photos if you're not sure about what you're looking at. You could have damaged most anything running the valves out of adjustment - everything needs to be looked. Inspect the valve stem tips and the keepers - be sure that there aren't any marks on either that look out of place.

Lastly, when adjusting valves (after you get past when to adjust each individual valves) is the twist method and jiggle method. Depending on who you talk to, you'll hear that one is superior over the other. My take on that is that I use both.


Your comments about big cam and 305 and issues that develop and what you've heard is all hogwash. The parts are going to to tell if you have the valves adjusted correctly. It will take a giant cam, or aftermarket lifters and rockers to cause a problem. If you believe that your cam is WAY big and it idles at 1000rms or less, then it's not big - it's mild to medium. I wish you were nearby, then I'd offer you some assistance and resolve the valve adjustment BS in an hour.


Do you know what the E O I C method is and understand why it works on all engines?

Nailhead, I appreciate the offer to help. You’re awesome. Was going to trailer the beast to NJ where my brother lives. He is a master.

 

[Reim]

Nailhead, I appreciate the offer to help. You’re awesome. Was going to trailer the beast to NJ where my brother lives. He is a master.

Update…adjusted the valves using the EOIC procedure and SUCCESS! They sounded great. We could not road test it due to a broken dipstick tube. Yep, the weld on the bracket broke. I’ll mend it or buy a new one. I looked on the net and cannot seem to find a stock one. Any suggestions there?

Thanks for the help everyone. Now to reinstalling the AC. I am sure I will have some issues and questions doing that.