Engine Chosen..

[gbodytoys]

Thanks for all your help guys...I finally purchased the ATK HP89M




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My budget for the engine was around $3k.
My budget for installation labor is $1k.
Misc. parts maybe $200, but the lower the better. Most parts will hopefully transfer from my current 350.
My goal was to be in the 12's, but I'm fine with mid to low 13's for now with a GBody Monte Carlo SS. 373 gears and street tires. 99.9% street car.

I do not want to do anything to the engine during the warranty period, ie: swap cams, heads, etc...
I will not be doing any of the work myself. I have a mechanic, but in the instance I can't get a hold of him, I'll be going to a shop.

They all seem very similar and have good and bad stories. ATK has West Coast Customs and Overhaulin vouches...repeatedly. Blueprint is all over every hotrod magazine, along with YEARONE.

 

[truracer20]

GM Performance parts and Chevrolet Performance have the benefit of being brand new parts, standard bore etc. You can't really go by what you see on TV and in magazines. And if you watch hotrod garage the Blueprint 383 is no longer in Finnigans wifes Elco. It was weak and it smoked bad right off the bat.

You could blow the whole wad on just the engine then save up again for the install money. But if you have any experience wrenching you could do the swap yourself. Cherry pickers can be rented.
Also figure out what flex plate each engine needs, the newer crankshaft needs a different flexplate.
1 piece and 2 piece rear seal is the difference. Your current engine most likely is a 2 piece, and some of the options listed have a chance of being 1 piece.

 

[Yav8]

My choice would be the GM Vortec 24 and 50 for the warranty. Latter a simple cam change to a hyd roller and its a easy 400hp.

 

[axisg]

As much as I like GMPP that YearOne motor for $3500.00 would be my choice ( If I had to buy a crate ). The Alum Heads are likely going to allow for a more aggressive camshaft ( 575 lift ) further down the road vs the 500 lift of a stock vortec head. The roller block is friendly with todays motor oils vs the flat tappet of the others. Personally speaking last spring I dropped over a grand to retro-roller my motor from flat tappet. As well in the picture it looks like it comes with an AirGap intake where some of the others don't even include one ( another $250 savings )

 

[don4life]

Thats a nice budget so if it was me I would talk to local engine builders and look for a 383. The extra cubic inches will increase torque and make the car funner to drive. HP numbers sell engines but its the torque that actually makes the car move

 

[truracer20]

The Vortec heads can be reworked to accept higher lift cams. Also if the Chevy Performance engine is a 2 piece rear seal it should readily accept a roller cam setup in the future. I do like the ATK engine for it's accessories but I have to wonder what type pistons it has in it, actually that goes for all of them. Usually that's listed.

 

[gbodytoys]

First off, thanks to everyone who replied. I made a thread previously and reality hit me in the head, so I knew I needed to re-up my budget. As of now, I'm most interested in the YearOne and ATK motors, but no matter where on the internet I read, most people praise the GMPP crates.

My goal is to have my car back on the road in April, but I rather wait until next year then to blow thousands on some crap or to be so unhappy that I have to spend another few grand altering what I just bought, all because some Charger R/T flew past me, lol.

You could blow the whole wad on just the engine then save up again for the install money. But if you have any experience wrenching you could do the swap yourself. Cherry pickers can be rented.
Also figure out what flex plate each engine needs, the newer crankshaft needs a different flexplate.
1 piece and 2 piece rear seal is the difference. Your current engine most likely is a 2 piece, and some of the options listed have a chance of being 1 piece.

Computers...I do that. Electronics...I do that. Messing with something that could cause me to die when I'm doing 120+ mph on the freeway...I don't do that, lol. Seriously, I lack the confidence to mess with a motor, in addition to not having a local teacher. My current engine is a 3970014 - 15B606533 . 70's something 350 out of a Chevelle I think.

As much as I like GMPP that YearOne motor for $3500.00 would be my choice ( If I had to buy a crate ). The Alum Heads are likely going to allow for a more aggressive camshaft ( 575 lift ) further down the road vs the 500 lift of a stock vortec head. The roller block is friendly with todays motor oils vs the flat tappet of the others. Personally speaking last spring I dropped over a grand to retro-roller my motor from flat tappet. As well in the picture it looks like it comes with an AirGap intake where some of the others don't even include one ( another $250 savings )

I agree. That YearOne motor is calling me. Like you said, I'd have to buy another vortec intake as well if I get one without it. I have a TH-350, so I plan on going back to the 200r that was in the car initially for overdrive later this summer.

 

[drogg1]

Computers? Electronics? Are you an engineer or a hobbyist? Just curious as I am an electrical and computer engineer.

I would go with either of the first two Year Ones. Best deal and performance out of the box and upgradeable. I will say that I agree that the job is not too hard. However, I respect that you are mindful of your own limits especially when it's a large investment.

 

[truracer20]

Don't under estimate those Charger RTs or over estimate those 5 engine choices. I can understand your reason for having someone else do the work. Just an option though.

 

[pencero]

I went to a fairly well off high school and have seen a lot of crate engine swaps go down. Not a single person I went to high school with still has any of those engines in their car 10yr later. I can think of several people who started with this crate engine from jegs however, and still running it 10 yrs down the road! http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performanc...9&cadevice=c&gclid=CIzD7pPz28MCFQ4vaQodAx0AJw It can not be built past about 400 hp and would barely run your goal qtr mile however; but much more reliable and no 'smoking' and cracked block stories just a few years down the road to report imo... I would never buy a crate eng. over a swap except this 1 and a handful of others I have seen last a really long time. Plus what good is a warranty if the part fails thats still an annoying situation to go through either way...