How To: Fix Loose Tilt Steering Column PIC HEAVY **NOW WITH VIDEO**

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Fix your loose Tilt Column in your G-Body!

I’ve included steps that a more experienced mechanic could probably skip, but this is for everyone.

Here’s the tools you’ll need. (I think I got them all)

Steering Wheel Pivot Pin Remover (get the Lisle 19940 tool)

Steering Wheel Lock Plate Remover

Steering Wheel Puller

E8 Reverse Torx Socket

T-30 Torx Bit

T-20 Torx Screwdriver (or Torx bit)

1/2 , 9/16 , 7/8 , 13/16 Sockets or Wrenches

Red Loctite

Snap Ring Pliers

9/64 Allen Wrench

Small and Regular Flat Blade Screwdrivers

Needle Nose Pliers

Small and Regular Phillips Screwdrivers

Hammer

Here is the Shop Manual Exploded View

Lay all the parts out in the order they come off so you can reverse the order on assembly!

First take off the Horn button. I has three ears that hold it on. Just pull it off with your hand. Once that’s off you’ll see the horn button wire and plastic connector. Push the connector in, rotate counter clockwise and pull out to remove.

Use snap ring pliers to remove the clip from the Steering Shaft and remove the 13/16 nut holding the Steering Wheel on.

Notice the marks on the Shaft and Steering Wheel. I have never found a Shaft/Wheel combo that this isn’t already there (as in from the factory). If there are no witness marks, make them with a chisel so you can line them up when you’re done so the wheel is straight.

Attach the Puller to the Steering Wheel and remove. My puller kit had 1/2 bolts that connected to the wheel and the puller used a 9/16 socket. (your kit may differ here)

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Attach your Steering Wheel Lock Plate Remover and tighten until you fully expose the snap ring on the shaft. I used a pair of small flat blades (or seal picks) to wrestle it off. (You could try a small set of snap ring pliers, but I find my way just as easy) Push the snap ring all the way back to the tool and then loosen the tool to remove the Lock Plate.

Remove the Upper Bearing Spring, and with a small Phillips remove the Hazard Flasher Button .

With a Phillips screwdriver remove the Turn Signal Stalk Lever and the (3) screws that hold the Turn Signal Switch Assembly on. NOTE: You will need to click the assembly to “Right Turn” to gain access to the one screw.

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RECOMMENDATION: Replace the Turn Signal Return Springs now or when it’s going back together. These springs break over time. At $3 it’s great insurance. I do this to every column I crack open.

Doing this in the car, remove the Steering Column Bracket below the dash. Remove the Turn Signal Switch Assembly wiring harness from the lower column. This will allow the Switch to pull out enough to help in later steps. Do the same with the Cruise Control Wire

Pull the Turn Signal Switch Assembly out and let it hang down. Pull the Buzzer Switch Assembly out. (There’s a spring clip that will stay stuck in there. We’ll get that in a minute)

Use a T20 Torx to remove the Ignition Cylinder holding pin. Now remove the Ignition Cylinder. With that removed you can get that Buzzer Switch Assembly retaining clip out (Be careful and don’t just yank it out. You can bend or break that little guy) It fits on the Switch as pictured.

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Remove the Upper Bearing Inner Race Seat and the (3) silver T30 Torx screws along with the Tilt Lever. Pull the Lock Housing Cover out and let it hang with Signal Switch. Remove the Column Housing Cover End Cap as well.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the Wheel Tilt Spring by compressing the cap and turning counter clockwise. It should come out as one piece.

Pull the upper Bearing Inner Race before pulling the Steering Column Housing as this little guy will fly off later and skip or roll to parts unknown.

I used the Lisle 19940 Steering Wheel Pivot Pin Remover tool. It has excellent reviews. Not so much for this other guy (black and white photo) The interwebs have reported that the small threaded end has been known to break off and cause cursing and tears.

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The screw part of the tool threads in to the Pivot Pin (the head is a 9/64 Allen) The cup goes on the outside of the pin. Use a 1/2 inch wrench to tighten down and pull the pin out. Do the same for the other side.

Put the Tilt Lever back in and move it a few times to release the top of the housing. With this done, pull out slightly and rotate clockwise to get the High Beam Rod pushed through the opening in the housing. Let the housing hang down (Now is the perfect time to add some grease to those bearings if they’ve gone a bit dry)

Finally!! Here are the offending bolts. There are (4) E8 Reverse Torx Bolts that hold the tilt together. One was so loose I just pulled it out. It was just sitting there! Tighten all (4) bolts, then loosen one at a time to remove, clean, add Red Loctite, and tighten down. Once all (4) have been loctite treated and tightend (one at a time) you can start the reassembly process. (every step in reverse)

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A Few Things To Watch For When Reassembling:

This Ignition Switch Actuator Rack (attached to the Steering Column Housing)

Must go over this pin that is part of the Switch Actuator Assembly

That controls this rod down to the Ignition Switch on the column

The Actuator Rack and this Sector gear must line up like this. Before putting the pins in, stick the Ign Cylinder in the slot where it would go and check the function of this.

If all is well, push the pins in by hand (the small portion should go in easy) then use a hammer to tap them in.

The Column Housing Cover End Cap has a Dimmer Switch Rod Actuator that sits in it like this:

It has to engage the Dimmer Rod like so:

With the End Cap in place you should be able to hold the End Cap with your Left hand and use your Right thumb to push the Actuator and click the Dimmer Switch. If that’s OK then install the Lock Housing Cover.

When you install the Ign Cylinder back in make sure it works smoothly through all positions. Install the bolt pin to hold it in. At this point you can install the Buzzer Switch Assembly and Retaining Clip as an assembly. Turn the Ign Cylinder to run and use a small screwdriver or seal pick to push the Green tab up (it should stay up for you) to be able to install them.

That’s it! I hope this helps someone.

Hutch

 

[Injectedcutty]

Hutch, thanks on behalf of the GM crowd for your in depth step by step! I used the popular elco site when I did mine, but your explanations, pics, etc are far superior sir! Hats off to you!!!!

 

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Hutch, thanks on behalf of the GM crowd for your in depth step by step! I used the popular elco site when I did mine, but your explanations, pics, etc are far superior sir! Hats off to you!!!!

Thank you. That means a lot.

 

[69hurstolds]

I am a fan of your how-tos. Another awesome job.

But are you upgrading the lower bushing with a bearing too? Or did you already do that?

 

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But are you upgrading the lower bushing with a bearing too? Or did you already do that?

Yes I am. At a later date. Parts are in hand.

Hutch