Hurst Competition Plus

Baker7888

Master Mechanic
Dec 3, 2021
378
28
Maine
I have a Hurst CP mounted to my T10 4 speed and I am new to these shifters. I am currently doing my mock up.

Reverse is all the way over to the left and up. When going into the reverse gate (?) from neutral (all the way left before you would go up) there is a pretty hard thud, you have to give it some force. Also when going back to the right is a similar feel although with less force. Is this normal? Possible safety feature?

I did have the unit apart although I am 98% sure its assembled correctly, well at least how i got it. There is one piece that fell out but I believe it goes in behind the stick bolt plastic bushing (based on size and wear marks) however correct me if i am wrong.
 

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Bonnewagon

Geezer
Sep 18, 2009
8,847
113
Queens, NY
l (all the way left before you would go up) there is a pretty hard thud,
That is the reverse lockout. It makes it hard to get into reverse accidentally. Yes, it should take some effort to get it over into reverse. I can't tell about that shim from the picture, The bolt/nut is a shift stop limiter. You adjust it so once you are in gear -no more travel.
 
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Baker7888

Master Mechanic
Thread starter
Dec 3, 2021
378
28
Maine
The bolt/nut is a shift stop limiter. You adjust it so once you are in gear -no more travel.
Yes the bolt/nut on the front and back of the stick ? I was told something like it should be in gear but not too far forward or it will wear the transmission?
 

CopperNick

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Feb 20, 2018
2,247
113
Canada
And it is that 2% of uncertainty that is just lurking in the bushes to bite you. Biggest problem with the Hurst units is that Hurst is no longer in business. Even the rebuild parts and kits are not obsolete and E-Bay fodder. There is, if memory serves at least one dude out there who is something of a Hurst wizard; possibly a You Boob search might turn him up. Also would be the place to go surfing for an exploded picture of how all the parts lay out and relate to each other. At the very least, considering I happen to have one attached to the Muncie in my Monte, the shifter handle is spring loaded to default to a location between third and fourth. That is what makes them so quick. Reverse is deliberately hard to get to so that hitting it instead of first during a power throw is virtually impossible; not totally, just supremely difficult.

The basic weirdness I am seeing here is that all the levers are outside the body. They need to be inside and on the hollow pin to line up correctly with that spring loaded finger.



Nick
 
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Bonnewagon

Geezer
Sep 18, 2009
8,847
113
Queens, NY
Yes, it is so that you don't force it too far. Once in gear the shifter forks should be relaxed and the gears will stay put with no more input. In a racing/fast shifting situation you only want to shift just far enough to fully engage the gears. Any more than that is wasted effort and bad for the parts inside.
 
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Baker7888

Master Mechanic
Thread starter
Dec 3, 2021
378
28
Maine
And it is that 2% of uncertainty that is just lurking in the bushes to bite you. Biggest problem with the Hurst units is that Hurst is no longer in business. Even the rebuild parts and kits are not obsolete and E-Bay fodder. There is, if memory serves at least one dude out there who is something of a Hurst wizard; possibly a You Boob search might turn him up. Also would be the place to go surfing for an exploded picture of how all the parts lay out and relate to each other. At the very least, considering I happen to have one attached to the Muncie in my Monte, the shifter handle is spring loaded to default to a location between third and fourth. That is what makes them so quick. Reverse is deliberately hard to get to so that hitting it instead of first during a power throw is virtually impossible; not totally, just supremely difficult.

The basic weirdness I am seeing here is that all the levers are outside the body. They need to be inside and on the hollow pin to line up correctly with that spring loaded finger.



Nick
Yeah there’s a guy on YT he is actually oddly quite entertaining, good detailed videos as well. However as far as i can tell the unit i have is “pre 66” as that’s about the time they stopped welding the stick on and made it a two-bolt detachable design. I was unable to find an exploded view. There are various differences throughout the years. I did not spend a ton of time researching tho.
 

Baker7888

Master Mechanic
Thread starter
Dec 3, 2021
378
28
Maine

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Bonnewagon

Geezer
Sep 18, 2009
8,847
113
Queens, NY
That looks better. These things are defintely the Rubik's Cube of car parts! I learned to NOT take them apart. I remove, soak in solvent, add oil and grease, and put back in service. For some reason I cannot find an exploded view.
 
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ELCAM

G-Body Guru
Jun 19, 2021
712
93
Competition/Plus Shifter
Rebuild.
 

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