I need cam and torque converter advice for 5.3/4l60E

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Silent viewer

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I have a 5.3/4l60E combo with a fitech kit on top of it to control it all. I am looking for a good streetable car, daily city driving and something that can handle long trips on the interstate without eating fuel. In other words, I am not drag racing, I want more power than stock and don't feel the truck cam is the best for a g body. A popular cam from what I have been reading is the LS1 hot cam and I have read that a stall converter is ideal. It is really hard to find advice on what I am looking for because most people building combos like this are racing and building their cars for all out peak power which is not what I am really after. Do I want to be fast? Yea of course but more in the aspect that I want a fun driver that can have some fun with a honda from stop light to stop light. I have learned in the performance world that people tell you to go overkill and in most applications that it really is not and never will be needed. example, I have a boating buddy of mine that told me to run -10 fuel lines on my boat engines, I had 450hp per side and went -6 with zero issues. He was used to 800hp blower engines and could not think outside of that mindset for my application. These are the things I am keeping in mind buying a cam and torque converter and hoping not to break that bank buying stuff that while it may be the best of the best, it's more than I will ever need for my application. Thanks for any positive input
 

ostrich

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Aug 27, 2012
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I'll give you my $0.02 worth. I'm going with a 5.3l/4l80e, but with a turbo. N/A I would still probably go the same route for a good streetable driver.
C6 corvette cam .
204/211 duration at 0.050
0.525 lift both sides
116 lsa
Then call Circle D or Yank for a converter suggestion, I went Circle D 2800 stall, but billet plate for boost. I think that combination would also work well in an N/A motor, maybe not the most power etc.. Also C6 cams are cheaper than aftermarket ones, and they have been tested for drievability by GM. Good idle, etc.
 
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Silent viewer

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I do believe the c6 cam will require me to move the cam sensor to the front on my engine. It does seem like a decent cam though.
 

Streetbu

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May 22, 2011
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Elgin 1840p also known as Sloppy stage II
 
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L92 OLDS

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Mar 30, 2012
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I'll give you my $0.02 worth. I'm going with a 5.3l/4l80e, but with a turbo. N/A I would still probably go the same route for a good streetable driver.
C6 corvette cam .
204/211 duration at 0.050
0.525 lift both sides
116 lsa
Then call Circle D or Yank for a converter suggestion, I went Circle D 2800 stall, but billet plate for boost. I think that combination would also work well in an N/A motor, maybe not the most power etc.. Also C6 cams are cheaper than aftermarket ones, and they have been tested for drievability by GM. Good idle, etc.


Please post your dyno results when you have them. I'm not a cam expert but have read that a higher 116 LSA and lower lift on the exhuast side may reduce your top end power with a turbo. I bought the Elgin E1840P for my turbo 5.3 project only because the "sloppy stage 2" recipe has been proven over and over and known to produce a great power curve. FWIW, many also use this cam without boost.

https://www.ebay.com/p/Elgin-E1840P-Engine-Camshaft/235948016?iid=173676812881&chn=ps



Elgin Hydraulic Roller Camshaft - E1840PChev Gen III/IV (LS Series) 3-Bolt '97-Present
Adv. Duration: 283/286
Duration @ .050": 228/230
Lift: .585/.585
Lobe Separation: 112 LC
2200-7000, great mid range torque and power.


1549557206183.png
 
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CaliWagon83

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Nov 12, 2017
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4L80E seems like overkill for a NA 5.3. Besides which, the gearing kind of sucks unless you have a really powerful engine. There are different opinions out there, but 4L60s can be built to take more power, and they're considerably smaller and lighter than the 80.
 
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ostrich

Master Mechanic
Aug 27, 2012
310
313
63
Ontario, Canada
Please post your dyno results when you have them. I'm not a cam expert but have read that a higher 116 LSA and lower lift on the exhuast side may reduce your top end power with a turbo. I bought the Elgin E1840P for my turbo 5.3 project only because the "sloppy stage 2" recipe has been proven over and over and known to produce a great power curve. FWIW, many also use this cam without boost.

https://www.ebay.com/p/Elgin-E1840P-Engine-Camshaft/235948016?iid=173676812881&chn=ps



Elgin Hydraulic Roller Camshaft - E1840PChev Gen III/IV (LS Series) 3-Bolt '97-Present
Adv. Duration: 283/286
Duration @ .050": 228/230
Lift: .585/.585
Lobe Separation: 112 LC
2200-7000, great mid range torque and power.


View attachment 105585
I will. It may take me a bit to get everything together etc. I bought the C6 cam before the 'Sloppy stage 2' stuff was available. Numbers look good on this cam though. How is the idle with that duration? Also for 'regalman4925' you'll need valve springs on either cam for the lift.
 

ostrich

Master Mechanic
Aug 27, 2012
310
313
63
Ontario, Canada
4L80E seems like overkill for a NA 5.3. Besides which, the gearing kind of sucks unless you have a really powerful engine. There are different opinions out there, but 4L60s can be built to take more power, and the considerably smaller and lighter than the 80.
Agree, 4l60 NA is fine. 4l80e for boost can just be built cheaper for the power handling needed. IMO
 
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Silent viewer

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looking around online I am seeing a debate between the Elgin 1840p and the 1839P? I plan to replace springs and lifters while in there.
 
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