Is this carb worth rebuilding?

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Nov 4, 2012
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Today I tore into the 800 CFM quadrajet that came on my 1976 Buick 350 a while ago. At first glance it looked okay. Usually I don't **** with carbs though, I buy and replace them.

It appears to be the original carb from that motor (yes MrSony you were right, it is an 800, not a 750 as I initially thought). The number on it is 17056244. (76 quadrajet for a Buick with an automatic).

Someone was obviously in here before me because the float says "dorman" on it and I don't think dorman was an OE manufacturer for GM. And Mud wasps got inside of it and made a mess so the mud all needs be washed out but I have a few other concerns that may be problems or no big deal, I don't know enough about the subject to tell.

One, 3 of the four screws on the secondary throttle plate shaft broke off.

Secondly, I had to file down one of the screws so that I could get the shaft to slide out, and I don't know if or how badly I ****ed up the shaft.

Three, whoever was in here before
nicked one of the primary venturis on the base plate pretty noticeably. Not sure if this matters or not. Would be easy to file down but I don't know if that will screw something up.

Not sure if this thing is worth putting any work onto or if I should send it in as a core on a new carb. Take a look at the pictures and tell me what you think.

Nicked base plate-

IMG_20181023_174457330-2004x1761.jpg


Filed throttle plate shaft with broken screws-

IMG_20181023_173017242-2004x2672.jpg

IMG_20181023_172917904-2004x2672.jpg
IMG_20181023_172824660-2004x2672.jpg
 

airboatgreg

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Nice piece of scrap metal now. Should of asked before you took apart. No reason to remove throttle plate unless you have to re-bush. An art in itself. Don't mean to be critical.
To remove the throttle shaft you have to file the plate screws flush and then carefully remove, replace with new. You probably need to find another carb base with same linkage and rob that for parts.
 
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Live and learn. Less work for me anyways. Like I said I don't usually **** with these things other than unbolting them from the intake and bolting them back on.
 

airboatgreg

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Live and learn. Less work for me anyways. Like I said I don't usually **** with these things other than unbolting them from the intake and bolting them back on.
I like your attitude and if I can help I will. I have built thousands of carbs as I was a drivability tech for many years
 
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I like your attitude and if I can help I will. I have built thousands of carbs as I was a drivability tech for many years


I appreciate that. It's really no big loss, this came on my "parts motor" so I figured I'd maybe try to use it, but I would rather have a new Edelbrock on it anyway. I've never had any issues with Edelbrocks, just my experience, but they have been my preference over holleys and quadrajets.

But hey if someone has a base for this carb let me know, I'll buy it from you for the right price.
 

MrSony

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You haven't completely screwed yourself. Although, the only real way to get the screws out properly is with a machinist's vise that can be moved every which way and a drill press and a centering bit. Usually it will spin the screws right out. I have also done it with a standard hand drill, but the bits end up walking around. I have a spare baseplate I could send you for say, $30. It's got the nub on the arm for a Th350 kickdown cable. No nicks. :D And seems tight enough, it's off a used ebay carb, but it's really clean. To get the Mud Jackass nest out will require a good bath, or pressure washing/hose rinse. Then a soak preferably in an ultrasonic tank, or at least a bucket of carb solvent being agitated every so often. Keep in mind, to properly rebuild the quadrajet, will be about $120 dollars and a bit of work. That's better than dropping down $350 on a carburetor which imo is a really antiquated and inefficient design. I do like the anular boosters of the AVS2, though.
 
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You haven't completely screwed yourself. Although, the only real way to get the screws out properly is with a machinist's vise that can be moved every which way and a drill press and a centering bit. Usually it will spin the screws right out. I have also done it with a standard hand drill, but the bits end up walking around. I have a spare baseplate I could send you for say, $30. It's got the nub on the arm for a Th350 kickdown cable. No nicks. :D And seems tight enough, it's off a used ebay carb, but it's really clean. To get the Mud Jackass nest out will require a good bath, or pressure washing/hose rinse. Then a soak preferably in an ultrasonic tank, or at least a bucket of carb solvent being agitated every so often. Keep in mind, to properly rebuild the quadrajet, will be about $120 dollars and a bit of work. That's better than dropping down $350 on a carburetor which imo is a really antiquated and inefficient design. I do like the anular boosters of the AVS2, though.

I'll buy it from you. PM me an address to send you a money order, and I'll get one in the mail to you by the weeks end.
 
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DRIVEN

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MrSony is right, you aren't completely screwed. Hell, I'd save the original base, but I'm cheap and stubborn. His $30 replacement base is the wise move though. Personally, I think that if you get the original carb clean and rebuild it you won't regret it. No out-of-the-box aftermarket carb will out perform the correct Qjet.
 
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pontiacgp

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If something happens to the one your getting from Mr. Sony I have a base that you can have it for the price of the shipping
 
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Appreciate all the help guys. Glad I won't have to toss it into the failed projects pile. I currently have all the rusty and corroded pieces soaking in vinegar overnight. Seems to clean them up well. Someone told me that pine sol works well on the body and the top sections.
 
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