That short block in Wexford has been listed for a couple years. I think I'd prefer to buy a complete motor though. I'd even consider it if it was a long block. I saw that other one for $750, I think it's a little pricey for a motor that has been sitting for 10 years. There was one in Akron that I just missed that had a older rebuild with some mild performance parts that went for $500. There is one in Buffalo NY for $450 that comes with a TH350 transmission. Bit of a drive, but I could easily get there and back in a day.
My exhaust guy's name is Bob Hollinger. Owns/operates the meineke on Babcock Blvd in Ross. He's kind of a crabby old guy, but he's honest, does really good work and very fair prices. Pretty much my go-to guy for exhaust.
Thank ya kindly sir. I hope to be posting more of the Regal soon. Just a matter of switching gears from Ford stuff back to GM. Like I said, I could go SBC or SBB and be equally happy, it's just a matter of what I can find. I'd like to go Buick if I can just because it's already set up for it and it would be marginally less work for me.
...you do still have the '76 buick 350 don't you? All the machine shop needs to do is bore, finish hone, and install cam bearings. I built my SP engine in a weekend after I got it back. Plus, northern auto parts has a screamin deal on a re-ring kit
http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/ek-er1066. Gives you an option to buy the intake valley pan as well. With stock heads, if you want about 9.5:1 with the thicker aftermarket gaskets, get the 340p pistons from summit. I spent about 1500 rebuilding my SP engine, although I didn't have to bore it (low mileage engine), and I used the $250 balancer I already had. So, add another $1000-1500 on the cost for pistons, balancer, timing cover, distrubutor (99$ from TA), etc. The ONLY thing you kind of should do, is notch the heater box. You have the later style valve covers, so that allows you slightly more room back there, but it would help. Look at Blake442s 3.8/Th200c to 350 buick swap thread. It also depends on the condition of your body mounts as well.
Edit: I do suggest, not only for you if you go buick, but for anyone, take a file or dremel and remove all the flashing from the lifter valley on any buick engine. Buick was terrible about this. it's one of the few annoyances about Buicks. But after an hour or two of some classic rock and a file, it will be done. I suggest doing it prior to the trip to the machine shop, and shoving a rag underneath to catch most of the chips.
Either way, as said, eager to see the car again.
