BUILD THREAD JRP's '87 Regal Thread

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Nov 4, 2012
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The tab on that is broken too...The lower tube bolts to the block, the upper bolts to the exhaust manifold heat shield. I'd just clock them where you want them and drill a little hole in the lower tube to tack them together.

I'll rig it together one way or another.

You can get the exhaust surfaces flat enough with a file (they're pretty flat already, hence why buick never used gaskets) to where they should seal without any gasket or sealant. Inspect the manifolds for cracks. All buick 350 manifolds are the same , for all intents and purposes, so your '76 manifolds can swap over, or you can mix and match, like I did, to have a good set.

Pretty cool that they didn't use gaskets from the factory. I think one of my 76 manifold has a broken ear on one of the bolt holes, but I have to look at them, can't remember. These ones off the 72 look good but I haven't checked them out up close yet.
 
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I found an old USB drive when I was cleaning out my desk today and found some old pictures of the Regal that I thought I had lost. This was the day I brought it home, March of 2012. It's been driven all of about 10 miles since then.

joe15.jpg

joe16.jpg
joe17.jpg
 
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1evilregal

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wow, has it been 6 1/2 yrs already? seems like only a couple years ago you showed up here with it...

it really has come a looong way from there ^^ :cool:
 
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wow, has it been 6 1/2 yrs already? seems like only a couple years ago you showed up here with it...

it really has come a looong way from there ^^ :cool:

Yeah, time flies when you're having fun I guess. It sure has come a long way. GBF has been invaluable in getting it together too.
 
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So probably a few of you guys have seen my thread on machine work prices and before I can make a solid decision on what exactly I want to do with this engine, I have to talk to another machine shop for at least a second opinion if nothing else.

So I'm gonna talk to this other shop that a buddy of mine said is pretty reasonable and see how much they are willing to work with me. As many people have noted, this engine is in pretty good shape and I can probably get away with very minimal machine work, just having the machine shop install the cam bearings, leave the cylinders, crank and rods alone, and reassemble myself. I don't think it needs honed, and I'm almost certain it doesn't need bored. Depending on how much the shop is willing to work with me in price is how far I'll take it. I have about $2000 max to spend on the engine not including what I've already spent. It would be great if I could spend less than that (save some for other stuff like tires, exhaust, crossmember, a correct '87 grille, some interior door panels, etc) . And as I've said before in other threads, I am gonna be using this engine, not buying another.

So maybe I'll just do the minimum and have the shop change the cam bearings. I'm leaning that way thanks to guys like Driven, lilbowtie, 64nailhead and MrSony. Thanks for your help guys.

Cylinder pics-

IMG_20181103_204336417-2004x2672.jpg
IMG_20181103_204301072-2672x2004.jpg
IMG_20181103_204308598-2672x2004.jpg


Oh, also got my carb painted. I think it came out pretty good. I may touch it up in a couple spots, but overall I think the gold looks similar to the original. As soon as the women in the house step out for a minute, I'll toss it in the oven and bake the paint on low heat for an hour. I've found that helps exponentially with durability.

IMG_20181103_202053849-2672x2004.jpg
IMG_20181103_202030864-2672x2004.jpg


Anyways I'll keep this updated for anyone who is following along. Right now I'm going to go numb my mind with football :drool: lol
 
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MrSony

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So probably a few of you guys have seen my thread on machine work prices and before I can make a solid decision on what exactly I want to do with this engine, I have to talk to another machine shop for at least a second opinion if nothing else.

So I'm gonna talk to this other shop that a buddy of mine said is pretty reasonable and see how much they are willing to work with me. As many people have noted, this engine is in pretty good shape and I can probably get away with very minimal machine work, just having the machine shop install the cam bearings, leave the cylinders, crank and rods alone, and reassemble myself. I don't think it needs honed, and I'm almost certain it doesn't need bored. Depending on how much the shop is willing to work with me in price is how far I'll take it. I have about $2000 max to spend on the engine not including what I've already spent. It would be great if I could spend less than that (save some for other stuff like tires, exhaust, crossmember, a correct '87 grille, some interior door panels, etc) . And as I've said before in other threads, I am gonna be using this engine, not buying another.

So maybe I'll just do the minimum and have the shop change the cam bearings. I'm leaning that way thanks to guys like Driven, lilbowtie, 64nailhead and MrSony. Thanks for your help guys.

Cylinder pics-

View attachment 99032 View attachment 99034 View attachment 99036

Oh, also got my carb painted. I think it came out pretty good. I may touch it up in a couple spots, but overall I think the gold looks similar to the original. As soon as the women in the house step out for a minute, I'll toss it in the oven and bake the paint on low heat for an hour. I've found that helps exponentially with durability.

View attachment 99035 View attachment 99037

Anyways I'll keep this updated for anyone who is following along. Right now I'm going to go numb my mind with football :drool: lol
Good lookin carb...
kinda jealous. That's a different shade than my carb... what paint did you use?
 
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Carb came out beautiful.

Good lookin carb...
kinda jealous. That's a different shade than my carb... what paint did you use?


Thank you. I used Duplicolor wheel paint on it. Its slightly darker than I'd like, but its still pretty close. It's rated for high temps and is chemical resistant. I used the same paint for a wheel on my BMW a while ago and its been really durable.
 
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MrSony

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Thank you. I used Duplicolor wheel paint on it. Its slightly darker than I'd like, but its still pretty close. It's rated for high temps and is chemical resistant. I used the same paint for a wheel on my BMW a while ago and its been really durable.
Looks like its plated, turned out great.
 

MrSony

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That base is quite nice looking as well... :p
 
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