Just dropped the headliner- YUCK!

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Bonnewagon

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No shops close by, that is why I am going to try doing it. I saw a video using the Permatex Body Shop Heavy Duty stuff. They seemed to have time to smooth out wrinkles and stuff.
 

Longroof79

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Mark,
I think most interior adhesives are quick drying and usually require you to apply the fabric instantly. It's not like wallpaper where you can move it around for a better fit. When I did mine, I'd apply the adhesive to both surfaces, and then lay the fabric down half a section at a time. I actually had my wife help me hold it up until I was ready to apply the fabric. I did manage to glean a few tips off of You Tube. It does require patience.
 
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Bonnewagon

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That's what I'm afraid of Jack. If it goes down wrong I am skewered. The wagon board is a lot longer than the sedan and will need several folds to unroll upon it. Maybe I will try a test on a small patch and see what it acts like. That way I will be prepared with no surprises.
 

Longroof79

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That's what I'm afraid of Jack. If it goes down wrong I am skewered. The wagon board is a lot longer than the sedan and will need several folds to unroll upon it. Maybe I will try a test on a small patch and see what it acts like. That way I will be prepared with no surprises.
It does take a little technique, but so does everything these days. If I was still up there I would've gladly come by to help. Two heads are better than one, as the old adage goes. In this case, there's really no room for error.
 
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CopperNick

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My experience with that kind of adhesive is mostly with using the 3M 77 variant. i have never used the 76 version or the PermaTex one either for that matter. I may have to though as a recent quick peek at my replacement headliner revealed that it is getting rattier by the day. I may well end up laying a coat of two of resin on the back side of it to strengthen its rigidity and then go from there. As I noted somewhere, most of the pro shops shoot their adhesive using a spray gun and compressor method.



Nick
 

Bonnewagon

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As for coating the board I like the idea. But fiberglass resin is kind of stiff and brittle. I have some stuff called GLUVIT and it is made by the same place as Marine Tex. It is a flexible sealer that has some give to it. I used it a lot on my aluminum skiff. When you use it on wood it is permanent. I wonder if it would be the best way to stiffen the board without being so brittle.
 
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Longroof79

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My experience with that kind of adhesive is mostly with using the 3M 77 variant. i have never used the 76 version or the PermaTex one either for that matter. I may have to though as a recent quick peek at my replacement headliner revealed that it is getting rattier by the day. I may well end up laying a coat of two of resin on the back side of it to strengthen its rigidity and then go from there. As I noted somewhere, most of the pro shops shoot their adhesive using a spray gun and compressor method.



Nick
You're absolutely right about upholstery shops using a spray gun to apply the adhesive. It's a more efficient and effective way to apply a greater amount of adhesive compared to the spray can method. I have found with the spray can method that you can sometimes run out of adhesive while you're applying it.
Adding resin to the board is beneficial in helping strengthen it, and of course using fiberglass cloth or matting to help reinforce parts of the board that have suffered deterioration.
 

CopperNick

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Googled Marine Tex and Gluvit and OUCH!! over a C-note for the stuff and only quarts and gallons. No apparent listing for pints. Must be good stuff if they only sell in bulk sizes but I'm not a shop and this liner is likely to be the only one I ever do unless I get silly with the G-10 and finish the door panels on it.



Nick
 

Bonnewagon

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It is meant for boats and large surfaces at that. I did the entire hull of an 18 foot skiff about 3 coats with the gallon. It never leaked a drop in 20 years. The price now is about twice what it used to be. Still, it is great stuff.
 

Bonnewagon

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After dealing with other crap I can get back to this headliner. I ended up using some 120 grit sandpaper to smooth out the surfaces. There was way too much lumpy old glue making the surface very rough. I need to fix some cracks and breaks and I noticed the tape I used is not holding very well. I was thinking of using some fiberglass mat to make repairs. After that I will give it a coat of resin to stiffen it up. CK80- I re-read what you posted. If it is going to soak in that much then I won't have enough GLUVIT for the whole job. I do have a lot of regular resin so I will go that route. I saw a video and the guy coated the back side of the board. I am thinking that is a waste of time and better to do the fabric side to have a better surface to glue to as you said. So the resin soaks in enough to not need glass cloth? The glass used on the backside might be an idea but then how thick would the board end up? Here is a comparison of the extension board not sanded and the long board sanded. A whole lot of elbow grease but a very big difference! I am glad I did it but talk about torture. IMG_0429.JPG
 
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