Just dropped the headliner- YUCK!

Bonnewagon

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Sep 18, 2009
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Queens, NY
It could reinforce the reattachment of broken pieces,
That was what I was after. I made patches from some school grade foam board but they need to be backed up with something then sealed.
My question though is why need the mesh at all? Just a cloth-reinforced duct tape on the reverse side of the headliner does wonders, followed by resin alone on the now held firm front side. If need be, use some of that cloth tape called gaff tape/gaffers tape on the side you want to resin impregnate. Picture duct tape made of cloth with glue on one side. That stuff the resin can soak right into since it's not a plastic base like duct tape is.
So just use tape on the back side and resin on the fabric side. Makes sense. I looked up gaffers tape but it says it is waterproof on the backing so not good for resin? Or am I looking at the wrong stuff? Either way I think my industrial duct tape on the back side will hold the resin from soaking through. Then I can seal with resin. And for a large broken repair area then maybe a local layer of glass mat on the fabric side for good measure. Then layers of resin until it doesn't soak in any more? I am beginning to see this working.
 

ck80

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 18, 2014
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That was what I was after. I made patches from some school grade foam board but they need to be backed up with something then sealed.

So just use tape on the back side and resin on the fabric side. Makes sense. I looked up gaffers tape but it says it is waterproof on the backing so not good for resin? Or am I looking at the wrong stuff? Either way I think my industrial duct tape on the back side will hold the resin from soaking through. Then I can seal with resin. And for a large broken repair area then maybe a local layer of glass mat on the fabric side for good measure. Then layers of resin until it doesn't soak in any more? I am beginning to see this working.
In my firebird I filled the worst of the problem areas on the fabric side with skim coats of body filler believe it or not. I did it after the first coat of resin so it had a bit of a shell surface to bite into. Got gid of the repair seams then the next layers of the resin encapsulated the filler into the repair itself.

I see the ortho doc Thurs afternoon. If I'm as laid up as I'm led to believe, for as long as I'm led to believe, maybe I'll do one of the c10 headliners that are lying around in wait of repair.

One thing I'll caution that I don't know if I already did, or not.... when you do your fabric, make sure to have it overhang the board by about 1.5-2" on every side so you can wrap it around to the back after.
 
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Bonnewagon

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Sep 18, 2009
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Queens, NY
Thanks CK80- I think this is doable. My problem is long cracks that want to seperate so reinforcement is needed. I too have a couple of Jeep headliners waiting to see if I have the patience to do them too. i got lucky with my Firebird headliners. The shop guy who did mine must have done a better job because they are all still tight. Last July just melted my wagon foam and it fell off like tissue paper.
 

CopperNick

Royal Smart Person
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Feb 20, 2018
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Canada
Any chance on a picture of it so's I can show the dumb-*ss at the hardware store exactly what I want him to sell me???


And i personally have a Monte headliner that desperately needs some rehab along the same lines.



Nick
 

Bonnewagon

Geezer
Thread starter
Sep 18, 2009
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Queens, NY
I have been working up in my attic only because there is some big empty space up there. I have the headliner board laid out on a sheet of plywood. I started glueing the cracks and replaced parts with some resin. I forgot how fast it cures at +90° and lost one batch that got hard in the cup before I even got from the garage to the attic. I ended up using only 1/4 the hardener suggested. First I coated all the cracked and repaired spots with resin just to get it into the seams and as a base for the glass cloth. Then I cut patches of glass cloth and laid them onto the tacky resin. Finally I gave that a good coat and let it all get good and hard. Looks pretty stiff. Next I will give the whole thing a coat but it will need to be cooler weather. 90° ambient converts to MF'N OT as ELL up in an attic in July. Once done I can tidy the edges with a grinder so it will be smoother. IMG_0432_01.JPG IMG_0434_01.JPG IMG_0435_01.JPG
 
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ck80

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 18, 2014
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Picture of what?
Looking good though.

I remember when doing the headliner on my firebird in New Orleans..... used what was then the kitchen table and opened a window, thought it'd be enough... nope. Whole place stunk of resin for longer than I even remember. I'd say it was measured in months at a minimum.
 

Bonnewagon

Geezer
Thread starter
Sep 18, 2009
8,753
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Queens, NY
I only had some marine grade thick resin. Can I thin that with acetone or laquer thinner for better brush-ablility? Or will that affect the cure?
 

CopperNick

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Feb 20, 2018
2,092
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Canada
Ah, gaffers Tape? I have some fibreglass re-inforced packing tape but it is too narrow so would need that to be wider, maybe 2-3 inch. The one sided sticky mesh tape for drywall?

Not sure here, that post was over a week ago.



Nick
 

ck80

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 18, 2014
4,420
113
I only had some marine grade thick resin. Can I thin that with acetone or laquer thinner for better brush-ablility? Or will that affect the cure?
They say denatured alcohol, acetone, or lacquer thinners cam be used. Of the three, I'd avoid the alcohol as it would mostly evaporate but leave water behind.

Acetone can usually be used up to 10% solution - you want to thin 10 oz of resin, you use no more than 1 oz acetone. Only way to see the curing effect for sure with your product is run a test batch, unless there's info on the packaging which I assume is long since unreadable.
 
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