Let's All Go to the Hop

[fleming442]

Wheel hop breaks sh*t, and it sucks. I'm working with a Moser 9" housing and UMI control arms- adjustable upper with Helms on the frame side and poly bushings everywhere else. This is on my 67 A, but it's the same as a G. My latest research uncovered a Jeff Smith article that leans heavily on the lower bars being level. Mine are running 5⁰ uphill, rear to front. Obviously, I can't raise the rear of the lower because the axle tube is there. That leaves me lowering the front. Anyone tried any of this? Is there a kit, or should I just weld in 4 link brackets?

 

[1320John$$$]

Wheel hop breaks sh*t, and it sucks. I'm working with a Moser 9" housing and UMI control arms- adjustable upper with Helms on the frame side and poly bushings everywhere else. This is on my 67 A, but it's the same as a G. My latest research uncovered a Jeff Smith article that leans heavily on the lower bars being level. Mine are running 5⁰ uphill, rear to front. Obviously, I can't raise the rear of the lower because the axle tube is there. That leaves me lowering the front. Anyone tried any of this? Is there a kit, or should I just weld in 4 link brackets?

What kind of shock you running

 

[fleming442]

I have the cheap CE 3-way singles set in the middle- 40/60. I think I changed too much at once, but it's now closer to what it 'should be". I guess lowering springs would be cheaper and easier than lowering the front of the lower bar....

 

[motorheadmike]

I tend to aim for parallel lower arms.

Tuning 4 Link Rear Suspensions for the Drag Strip

Tuning 4 link rear suspensions. Don't have any idea how to do it? Don't worry! We show you how to set it up for the strip...

www.how-to-build-hotrods.com

 

[64nailhead]

Lowering it is the only I know of how to accomplish what you're after without welding new front mounts. Obviously that will raise the upper arms at the rear and force an adjustment of pinion angle. According to Mac at Southside that is the goal and also it will create the 'instant center' phenomena which is the goal for launching traction - at least I'm told.

 

[fleming442]

Springs are also the easiest. I don't think the uppers will collapse much more. Now, I'll have to put them back in the top holes.... quite the rabbit hole i dove into.
I'm trying to be economical about it and it's mostly a street car as well, so I'd rather not go solid bushings or Heim/Johnny/Roto joints. The drag shocks ride bad enough. I should probably look into some bump stops, too.

 

[565bbchevy]

I was hesitant to click on this thread fearing it might be something like this.

 

[UNGN]

When I bought my T-type, it wheel hopped like a **** in 14 second trim. I figured it was LCA bushings, but when I looked underneath, the aftermarket 1980's rear sway bar was broken. Putting on a rear bar cured the hopping, but it still spun the tires at launch.

I did experiments with the Track scale. No one was in the booth and they put the digital readout in the window, I put one rear wheel on the scale at a time. Driver side was about 200lbs heavier than the passenger side (no spare). When I Power braked to 2400 RPM, another 250lbs shifted off the passenger side, making nearly a 500lb difference in weight between the driver side and passenger side.

Putting in a passenger side airbag and preloading it to 200lbs of fake weight on the passenger side (about 400 lbs more than no bag) made the rear weights nearly equal during power braking which made launchs more consistent and probably greatly extended the life of my limited slip.

 

[fleming442]

When I bought my T-type, it wheel hopped like a **** in 14 second trim. I figured it was LCA bushings, but when I looked underneath, the aftermarket 1980's rear sway bar was broken. Putting on a rear bar cured the hopping, but it still spun the tires at launch.

I did experiments with the Track scale. No one was in the booth and they put the digital readout in the window, I put one rear wheel on the scale at a time. Driver side was about 200lbs heavier than the passenger side (no spare). When I Power braked to 2400 RPM, another 250lbs shifted off the passenger side, making nearly a 500lb difference in weight between the driver side and passenger side.

Putting in a passenger side airbag and preloading it to 200lbs of fake weight on the passenger side (about 400 lbs more than no bag) made the rear weights nearly equal during power braking which made launchs more consistent and probably greatly extended the life of my limited slip.

I do have airbags with individual lines and a friend with a scale set......