HELP Lets talk trans options

[DSPbuilt]

So I'm putting together a list with some options. Not entirely sure with route I want to go. So, I figured I'd ask you guys for some insight/experience.
I currently have a Th350 with an unknown convertor.
The trans was in the car when I got it. Trans feels good. No slipping, shifts nice and firm. Fluid looks and smells good.
Only issue I have is when I went swapped to EFI on the Ol' LS I lost my kickdown and the shifter sucks but I will be making a separate topic about that.
So my current idea is to keep my current trans, get a new budget converter and possibly a cheapo manual valve body
Summit recommends a 3000rpm Stall for my cam.
Jegs has a super budget converter that is pretty popular with the "sloppy" crowd. Has good reviews and very affordable at $180 with and advertised stall of 2700-3000 RPM.
Summit has one for $200 with an advertised stall of 2800-3200 RPM. I haven't done too much research on the Summit one to see reviews or who makes it for them.
Then I have been looking at TCI manual valve bodies. Pretty much $240-$270 depending on forward or reverse pattern, which on don't really know the benefits of each.
which puts us at lets say ~$500 parts plus fluid and filter.

Option 2: At much higher cost is to go 4L80.
When I went to EFI I went with the Termi X MAX because I wanted DBW and the capabilities of controlling the 4l80 in the future.
I know pretty much all the PROs go toward the 4l80 with strength, overdrive and such but it comes at a high cost.
Trans- ~$900
Holley $4l80 harness.- $200 (when I got the termi I got without the harness to save some cash at the time.)
New drive have shaft- $400ish.
Converter and Flex plate. -$500+
I would like to at least do a Transgo HD2 kit -$140.
Fluid and Filter- $100ish.
and lastly mod my current Jegs cross member.
So That is roughly $2,500 for a super stout trans.

For Both options I need a new shifter and I also want to do a rear mounted trans cooler with fan.

So my things is for the time being as a head/cam LS would I be okay with the TH350(with the converter & MVB) for street/strip fun or should I just leave it as it is and save for the 4l80 so it can be ready for the boost later.

 

[64nailhead]

It's difficult to offer a good recommendation without knowing what your goals are - so, please provide a clear list of goals.

Next, there is not a rear end gear that will work with both a 1:1 TH350 and .75:1 4L80 or any overdrive for that matter. So do you plan a gear swap if you go 4L80? If your answer is no, then there is no need to swap out a fully functional transmission just to have a top gar that will only be used over 75 mph IMHO. Again, this leads to a need to know your goals. And you ought to mention what size tire you plan to run as well (height).

Lastly, no matter which trans you go with, do yourself a GIANT favor and spend an extra $250-400 and get a converter to match your goals. The budget converters that you described for the TH350 are, hmmm, nicely described as a waste of money. FTI offers an economy TH350/400 converter for less than $400 that will be twice the unit of what you're looking at. Hughes, PATC, etc are the same. 4L80 converters are another add on expense - a decent, cheap one is at least $600-650. Circle D offers a good DD 278mm converters in that price range.

Forgot to add, you don't need a 4L80 for the strip. Check out wingnutz's thread - TH350 at sub 10 seconds on a TH350.

 

[L92 OLDS]

Do it once and do it right. I would save for the 4L80

 

[DSPbuilt]

It's difficult to offer a good recommendation without knowing what your goals are - so, please provide a clear list of goals.

Next, there is not a rear end gear that will work with both a 1:1 TH350 and .75:1 4L80 or any overdrive for that matter. So do you plan a gear swap if you go 4L80? If your answer is no, then there is no need to swap out a fully functional transmission just to have a top gar that will only be used over 75 mph IMHO. Again, this leads to a need to know your goals. And you ought to mention what size tire you plan to run as well (height).

Lastly, no matter which trans you go with, do yourself a GIANT favor and spend an extra $250-400 and get a converter to match your goals. The budget converters that you described for the TH350 are, hmmm, nicely described as a waste of money. FTI offers an economy TH350/400 converter for less than $400 that will be twice the unit of what you're looking at. Hughes, PATC, etc are the same. 4L80 converters are another add on expense - a decent, cheap one is at least $600-650. Circle D offers a good DD 278mm converters in that price range.

Forgot to add, you don't need a 4L80 for the strip. Check out wingnutz's thread - TH350 at sub 10 seconds on a TH350.

It's gonna be "street/strip". The ultimate goal is full weight low 10's drive to the track make some passes and drive back home.
Most of my track cars have always been bare bones manual cars.
This will be more of a "finished" pro-tour type of thing.
It currently has 3:55 gears which I should be nice for a turbo/4l80 combo. Currently a 275-65-15 which will be the track trim. Most of the tracks here are unfortunately are 1/8 mile but we have Z-Maxx like 45 min away.

 

[Jakefromstatefarm]

It's difficult to offer a good recommendation without knowing what your goals are - so, please provide a clear list of goals.

Next, there is not a rear end gear that will work with both a 1:1 TH350 and .75:1 4L80 or any overdrive for that matter. So do you plan a gear swap if you go 4L80? If your answer is no, then there is no need to swap out a fully functional transmission just to have a top gar that will only be used over 75 mph IMHO. Again, this leads to a need to know your goals. And you ought to mention what size tire you plan to run as well (height).

Lastly, no matter which trans you go with, do yourself a GIANT favor and spend an extra $250-400 and get a converter to match your goals. The budget converters that you described for the TH350 are, hmmm, nicely described as a waste of money. FTI offers an economy TH350/400 converter for less than $400 that will be twice the unit of what you're looking at. Hughes, PATC, etc are the same. 4L80 converters are another add on expense - a decent, cheap one is at least $600-650. Circle D offers a good DD 278mm converters in that price range.

Forgot to add, you don't need a 4L80 for the strip. Check out wingnutz's thread - TH350 at sub 10 seconds on a TH350.

I searched by the name you listed and the title

Searched "wingnutz" and "th350 sub 10"

Unable to find it, can you post a link to the thread you are talking about.


OP - I'm in the same boat right now... The 6.0LS I bought I didn't get to it in time and someone had already laid claim to the trans.

 

[DSPbuilt]

Do it once and do it right. I would save for the 4L80

That's honestly how I feel but I just feel like I should at least do a converter to actually use my power band.

 

[64nailhead]

I searched by the name you listed and the title

Searched "wingnutz" and "th350 sub 10"

Unable to find it, can you post a link to the thread you are talking about.


OP - I'm in the same boat right now... The 6.0LS I bought I didn't get to it in time and someone had already laid claim to the trans.

1982 Monte E85 Blow Thru Procharged SBC Build *PICS and VIDS ADDED***RUNNING***

D1sc max speed is 62,000. I'm sure there is some safety at that number but depends on your pulley setup and how often you eclipse 7k rpms.

gbodyforum.com

Post 210 - that's gettin' it!

 

[64nailhead]

It's gonna be "street/strip". The ultimate goal is full weight low 10's drive to the track make some passes and drive back home.
Most of my track cars have always been bare bones manual cars.
This will be more of a "finished" pro-tour type of thing.
It currently has 3:55 gears which I should be nice for a turbo/4l80 combo. Currently a 275-65-15 which will be the track trim. Most of the tracks here are unfortunately are 1/8 mile but we have Z-Maxx like 45 min away.

'pro-tour' I'll guess implies a lot of street time. If it's something that will get driven in all weather and get a lot of miles, then the 4L80 with a mild converter is a better choice afaic. It's hard to argue with the 'do it once' program.

1/8th mile racing is fine to me. We used to have a local 1/8th track and I'd rarely see a 1/4 mile track if it was still open. Manuals are fun and I enjoy driving them, but an auto easier and cheaper to go fast.

Cheapest way to a low 10 : https://www.nitrousexpress.com/ls-90mm-plate-system-20934.asp

 

[DSPbuilt]

'pro-tour' I'll guess implies a lot of street time. If it's something that will get driven in all weather and get a lot of miles, then the 4L80 with a mild converter is a better choice afaic. It's hard to argue with the 'do it once' program.

1/8th mile racing is fine to me. We used to have a local 1/8th track and I'd rarely see a 1/4 mile track if it was still open. Manuals are fun and I enjoy driving them, but an auto easier and cheaper to go fast.

Cheapest way to a low 10 : https://www.nitrousexpress.com/ls-90mm-plate-system-20934.asp

Its definitely gonna get driven a lot.
I guess I'm just trying to convince myself on speeding all the extra dough on a 4l80. lol
I dabbled with the idea of throwing a plate on it but it getting a turbo for sure unless I find a smoking deal on an LSA blower.

 

[64nailhead]

Its definitely gonna get driven a lot.
I guess I'm just trying to convince myself on speeding all the extra dough on a 4l80. lol
I dabbled with the idea of throwing a plate on it but it getting a turbo for sure unless I find a smoking deal on an LSA blower.

Then you should do the 4L80. It won't help track times because of the insane amount that it weighs, but very durable. Are you aware how heavy one is?

And now you're talking if you're going to turbo it. You're going to be in the inner fender guy club with me if you intend to drive it a bundle with a turbo - turbo, rain puddles and no inner fenders means lots of exhaust leak repair continually.

Is this going to be a DIY build? Costs can skyrocket if you have to pay for everything to be fabricated. Not that there is anything wrong with that if you can afford it and are willing to spend it. But you can save a pile of $$ if you can cut, grind and weld - the turbo build requires a bunch of that.