I've used mid length headers before, but most exhaust kits seem to be designed around long tube. Descriptions list removing or modifying locking steering columns. Anyone know specifically what needs to be done here? Any recommendations on long tube headers or installation tips would also be helpful.
Long Tube Header Fitment Issues
- Thread starter mamllc
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To expand on Flemings advice....get headers and acquire a good torch and a decent ball pein hammer! Test fit, mark with sharpie, heat and ding, repeat.
The steering column was about the only negative issue I didn’t have with my Hooker long tubes. Hit A-arms, 1st tube had to close of a bend to get the second bolt in without modifications, most spark plug areas needed banged in. Keep in mind once you heat or beat a header you’ve VOIDED any warranty. Forget beating on a coated header, total waste of getting coated ones. As I’ve said before, if I was going to do it over again (for a street/daily driver) I’d go with stainless shorties
The steering column problem is the shift linkage going to the trans. If you have a floor shift the linkage is still there for the column lock & neutral saftey. This may need to be modified to fit or eliminated in the case of floor shift and the neutral safety switch incorporated in the floor shift. I haven't had any issues w/ Dyno Max, Hooker Super Comps, or Shoefelds. There are different engine mounts - my frame mount is 1.25 in to the center of the motor mount bolt and motor mount 2.5 in. Installation- get the car as high as you can to feed the headers up.
Long tube headers are available that fit gbodys with several different engine types. Not sure what engine you have...but I put a set of Hedman long tube headers specifically designed for gbodys on my olds 350 that have no fitment issues.
Ordering specifically for my car/engine didn’t do much good with my SS Hookers
Thanks for all the replies. Sounds like something of a coin toss, each type with their own set of problems. The last G body I had was a Grand Prix that I swapped from V6 to SBC. I used ebay mid length headers that went on with minor fitment issues. Will probably do that again, at least I've been through it once. Long ago (mid 80s) I had a 78 Cutlass that I put a 350 Olds in and put long tubes on that, seems like it went well but that was a long time ago.
I am shopping for a car right now, have my mind pretty much set on an El Camino. There are several for sale presently and will most likely get one of them. Hope to start out with something built with a small block this time. Exhaust shopping right now might not seem to make sense, but I really do have reasons.
I am shopping for a car right now, have my mind pretty much set on an El Camino. There are several for sale presently and will most likely get one of them. Hope to start out with something built with a small block this time. Exhaust shopping right now might not seem to make sense, but I really do have reasons.
I've ran Dynomax long tubes on a 86 El Camino, and have Hooker Super Comps on a 79 Monte Carlo. Both sets had interference with #7 tube and the shift rod at the column. Was a fairly easy fix, remove back shift rod, (Do not lose the nylon bushing) heat end circled in red and add about 3-4 degrees of bend, Reinstall and adjust.
The Hooker Super Comps on the 79 also required some massaging to use a full size GM starter.
The Hooker Super Comps on the 79 also required some massaging to use a full size GM starter.
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That's not so bad, easier than the exhaust fab I had to do to make the exhaust kit I bought work with the mid length headers on the GP. Spark plug access looks like it might be better on the long tubes. #6 was a real test of patience on the GP too. Or not?
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