LT1 swap update - split loom install

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JD1964

Master Mechanic
Dec 31, 2014
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I also worked on securing the heater hoses. The stock Z28 heater hose assemble is being used. The metal line portion has a mounting bracket built in. I bent the bracket to line up under the inner edge of the Malibu fender well, drilled a hole and secured it with nut and bolt. It's really well secured and out of the way of things, almost like it was meant to be.

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JD1964

Master Mechanic
Dec 31, 2014
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JD1964

Master Mechanic
Dec 31, 2014
374
506
93
Actually, on those batt + and batt - terminals I installed, I think I’ll also put them in a smaller narrower junction box. They’re in a good place to drop a wrench on and cause some nasty arching. Not really a good thing to happen near a car battery that can emit explosive gasses.
 
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slow 442

Greasemonkey
Jan 16, 2014
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yes, i see its a 93 f body motor, i can tell by the accessory mount, p/s reservoir and fuel line placement. but i also see a b body water pump. anyways, i'm curious what mounting plate did you use for the vortech? is it for a tune port? or did you just modify the f body lt1 plate?
i also like the S shaped VORTECH air inlet to the intake manifold.
Next time I have it off I will get some pics of the setup. I did not make anything On the setup. From memory the vortech parts are 2 aluminum brackets that bolt to the block and heads, the air intake tube, the fuel modulator, crank pulley, the 2 steel brackets or plates that bolt between the aluminum brackets and supercharger look homemade and the reinforcement they comes from the cylinder head to the rear of the charger for extra stability. Also you will need to get a keyed balancer hub or pin it like the ls motors do as the stock balancer will definitely spin on the crank and mess your day up.
 
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
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JD. It's basically a stock 93 z28 lt1 With #24 injectors with a chip. To raise the fuel pressure with boost it closes off the return line with the blue disc on the d/s valve cover. At the moment I'm basically 6-7 psi and have seen the gauge hit 10 psi from time to time. I have no idea what the total timing is at the moment but I am running an old crane fireball ignition that retards timing as the boost goes up. The car runs great at 180 all day and I would would like to modernize the electronics to open up some tuning options but I'm fine with how it performs now
Holy schmoly - jinkies - WOW! I'd lay low on or off the10psi hits with 24lb injectors.

That's a ring land breaking, head lifting time bomb. I seen you mentioned it's chipped, but wow, I would have a set of 60's or 80's in that before you could say boo.


Very good looking setup though.
 
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JD1964

Master Mechanic
Dec 31, 2014
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Holy schmoly - jinkies - WOW! I'd lay low on or off the10psi hits with 24lb injectors.

That's a ring land breaking, head lifting time bomb. I seen you mentioned it's chipped, but wow, I would have a set of 60's or 80's in that before you could say boo.


Very good looking setup though.
Very good advice here. Matter a fact I maxed out 30lb injectors on my boosted 302 Foxbody, stock cam. At 8-10psi I had to bump up the fuel pressure about 10psi as a bandaid to keep the AF ratio in the 11:1 range under max boost. And my 302 is 9:1 compression whereas the LT1 350 is 10.5:1. Higher compression is more critical to deal with under boost.

Ive since upgraded to 42lb but have yet to tune it in.

In my opinion, every boosted application should include an wideband AF sensor and gauge. Especially aftermarket setups.
 
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JD1964

Master Mechanic
Dec 31, 2014
374
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The boneyard coughed up a few goodies for us this morning. Our 79 wagon really needs this stuff. Patch panels for the front floor pans and a fairly decent carpet padding. Set us back $22. Taken from an 88 Monte

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JD1964

Master Mechanic
Dec 31, 2014
374
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93
I made a shield for the aux terminals out of 2” pvc. Sliced it down the middle and made a 1/2 pipe of sorts and mounted it on a stud secured in the fender well. Painted it dark gray to blend in. I shielded the metal mounting stud with a piece of heater hose to further prevent bridging between + and -

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DRIVEN

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Apr 25, 2009
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Very good advice here. Matter a fact I maxed out 30lb injectors on my boosted 302 Foxbody, stock cam. At 8-10psi I had to bump up the fuel pressure about 10psi as a bandaid to keep the AF ratio in the 11:1 range under max boost. And my 302 is 9:1 compression whereas the LT1 350 is 10.5:1. Higher compression is more critical to deal with under boost.

Ive since upgraded to 42lb but have yet to tune it in.

In my opinion, every boosted application should include an wideband AF sensor and gauge. Especially aftermarket setups.
My dad ran a Paxton at @7psi on his LT1 with stock injectors and an MFU. No other tuning and no problems. Bigger is better if you want but at conservative boost, not necessary.
 
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slow 442

Greasemonkey
Jan 16, 2014
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I spoke to the 2nd owner of my supercharged LT1 over the weekend.when he purchased it it had 5,000 miles on the set up. It was built down south in 2006/7 and there was a video of it running in a shaved silver 86 442 that was on YouTube that seems to have been taken down recently, but someone might have seen it? He had it running for approximately 3,000 miles with the vortech booster pump inline that was inoperable when I received the motor. I personally pulled everything and in speaking to the prior owner his only problem was throwing the belt.i fixed the belt throwing problem by using a keyed balancer hub and shimming the head unit bracket for a straight shot thru the pulleys. It is now running a walbro 255 in tank pump the turbo city chip that was in the computer when I got my hands on it. Originally it had f body jba shorty headers that I changed to long tubes and a 2.5 true dual exhaust. I have over 1,000 miles on it at the moment and it's not particularly quick but has been 11.8 so I'm told.i have never raced it on a track due to etown closing the strip but it definitely has some get up and go! Feels just as quick but less temperamental than my olds 455 that ran 12.2/5 . I think the internals are stock by looking at it with the pan and valve covers off and the previous owner that I am in touch with made no claims to anything being done besides valve springs. The only thing that bothers me is the power isn't that great when the temperature outside is over 90.
 
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