Manual linkage install help

ssn696

Living in the Past
Supporting Member
Jul 19, 2009
5,405
113
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Last edited:
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ssn696

Living in the Past
Supporting Member
Jul 19, 2009
5,405
113
Permanent Temporary
Speed Direct lists this geometry for the G-body:
1669237621658.png

I was kind of bummed to see how much Bonnewagon had to slot his firewall.

1669237824842.png


This was borrowed from https://garage-scene.com/t5-into-ag-body.
 
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Baker7888

Master Mechanic
Thread starter
Dec 3, 2021
378
28
Maine
Happy thanksgiving all.

To close this thread out (on my end at least) what i ended up doing is cutting down the pushrod that goes from zbar to clutch fork. Only the tip of the female half is threaded so i needed to weld a nut on after cutting, and also cut the stud down some as well. After some trial and error I got it to feel and work nicely and rest where it should. The kit i used did not come with a clutch pedal stop so I had to buy that separately.

Also for the firewall I used a hole saw in the dimple location discussed earlier in this thread and worked out perfectly. Rod is nice and center of the hole.

I was lucky enough to have an origin clutch fork that came with my used bell housing. I did not use the fork in the kit as it was the wrong one however i did steal the spring off of it. The throwout bearing i used came with my zoom clutch kit (10 spline from 63 vette) Shifter is a hurst competition plus for a 57 chevy and although it does clear the bench, it hit the dash in 1st and 3rd. I cut about 2” of straight at the bottom of the stick and welded it back together and it clears everything beautifully.

Also I am running a pair of hooker longtubes and the linkage will hit the #5 primary (goes up and over then down behind #7) I cut this out and routed it between the #3 and #7 primary and all is well.

There is probably more I am forgetting but that is the gist of it. Hope this helps.
 

Baker7888

Master Mechanic
Thread starter
Dec 3, 2021
378
28
Maine
Here are a few
 

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pagrunt

Geezer
Sep 14, 2014
8,059
113
Elderton, Pa
Here are a few
Guessing that was the shifter you had but did you ever thought about getting one with the bolt on stick? Hurst still sells the one for our cars (only because it's also listed for 2nd gen F bodies with the T10.) I have a bench & a Saginaw with everything clearing. Only change I've made since I dove into redoing the car was go from the flat stick to the round stick listed for '69 Camaros (same shape as the flat stick.)
 
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Baker7888

Master Mechanic
Thread starter
Dec 3, 2021
378
28
Maine
Guessing that was the shifter you had but did you ever thought about getting one with the bolt on stick? Hurst still sells the one for our cars (only because it's also listed for 2nd gen F bodies with the T10.) I have a bench & a Saginaw with everything clearing. Only change I've made since I dove into redoing the car was go from the flat stick to the round stick listed for '69 Camaros (same shape as the flat stick.)
From what i understand hurst changed the design to bolt on at some point so what I have is one of the old originals. Had to disassemble the clamshell and all the plates to get the stick out.
 

pagrunt

Geezer
Sep 14, 2014
8,059
113
Elderton, Pa
From what i understand hurst changed the design to bolt on at some point so what I have is one of the old originals. Had to disassemble the clamshell and all the plates to get the stick out.
OK, that explains it. I knew the older shifters didn't have the feature to swap sticks. I do like the newer ones cause of swap feature.
 
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Baker7888

Master Mechanic
Thread starter
Dec 3, 2021
378
28
Maine
OK, that explains it. I knew the older shifters didn't have the feature to swap sticks. I do like the newer ones cause of swap feature.
Agreed. Swapping sticks is a project on the older units
 

Bonnewagon

Geezer
Sep 18, 2009
8,852
113
Queens, NY
ssn696- I did not cut the firewall for the Speed Direct clutch rod. It was because I re-located the attachment point a bit lower on the Z-bar. I needed to get more bottom rod travel so the geometry needed adjustment. Now I get full clutch disengagement and still keep my 1" free play at the pedal when relaxed. See- the old holes line up Ok. IMG_1039.JPG
 
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