It's late, I've had a couple of adult beverages, so hopefully this makes sense. My car is on jack stands currently, waiting for me to remove/diagnose/repair the brake combination/proportioning valve. The "brake" light is on in the dash, brakes are funky(no leaks), I have replaced the M/C, still funky, and no fluid from the rear bleeders, so Combi valve is the next step from my logic.
That's not the reason for this post. While I had the wheels off for the first brake bleeding, I swapped the 17x9" rims to the front to check the TIRE fit. Backed out of the garage, pulled around the corner and parked my car in the drive. (We live on a corner and have an L shaped concrete driveway) As I walked around the car I found a wheel weight on the drive. This warranted further investigation. With the car back up on stands(placed in line with the springs on the front lower A-arms, so maybe 1/2 compression??), I turned the front wheels lock to lock and rotated them. Turns out with my particular combination (Summit UCA's, +1/2" Proforged upper and lower BJ's, Moog 5660- 1/2 coil springs, and Blazer spindles), the 17x9", zero offset/5" BS rims are REALLY close to the upper arm ball joint mount. Close enough on the passenger side to clip off the wheel weight, and on the drivers side the rim can hit the mount.
Without the +1/2" BJ's, or the 5" BS on the wheels I think it would be fine. My point is- check all potential contact/interference points before you head out on the road, every combination, body style, suspension, and car is different. I know- the photo sucks.
