BUILD THREAD Midlife Crisis Monte Carlo Build

tokarz1

Greasemonkey
Feb 16, 2019
119
371
63
Phoenix, NY
I really want to try roller rockers on my dually, see if it doesn't help with oil temps. The springs I have on there are a good bit stiffer than stock. I got away with Comp Pro Magnums under my stock 350 Vortec valve covers with short poly locks, not sure what fits under a stock 454 valve cover.
I was going to use some Comp roller tip rockers with short poly locks, but the comp rockers had a maximum spring diameter of 1.500" in. My springs have a diameter of 1.550".
 

tokarz1

Greasemonkey
Feb 16, 2019
119
371
63
Phoenix, NY
The TH400 came with the countebored "bolt on" yoke and I needed a slip yoke. After a bunch of research I settled on a Neapco N3-3-2431X TH400 Slip Yoke. It is a 32 spline, takes 1350 u-joints, and has the 0.530 counterbore to slide over the o-ring grove in the output shaft.

While I was on the driveline subject I picked up a Neapco N3-2-1579 flange yoke for the 8.8 rear end. The flange yoke that came with the rear end uses a 1330 u-joint and the Neapco uses a 1350.


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The mounting bolts for the rear end flange have seen better days so I grabbed a new set of those as well.

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Of course, I had to paint them up before installing them.

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Supercharged111

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 25, 2019
4,908
7,670
113
Colorado Springs, CO
The TH400 came with the countebored "bolt on" yoke and I needed a slip yoke. After a bunch of research I settled on a Neapco N3-3-2431X TH400 Slip Yoke. It is a 32 spline, takes 1350 u-joints, and has the 0.530 counterbore to slide over the o-ring grove in the output shaft.

While I was on the driveline subject I picked up a Neapco N3-2-1579 flange yoke for the 8.8 rear end. The flange yoke that came with the rear end uses a 1330 u-joint and the Neapco uses a 1350.


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The mounting bolts for the rear end flange have seen better days so I grabbed a new set of those as well.

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Of course, I had to paint them up before installing them.

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Shouldn't the trans yoke extend further up the output shaft when converting to a slip yoke? I need to do the same to mine.
 

tokarz1

Greasemonkey
Feb 16, 2019
119
371
63
Phoenix, NY
Shouldn't the trans yoke extend further up the output shaft when converting to a slip yoke? I need to do the same to mine.
This is copied from Denny's Driveshaft..

Neapco N3-3-2431X

1350 Series 32 spline T-400, 4L80, 4L85, 6L80 Transmission Slip yoke

Replaces the truck style bolt on yoke with a normal car style slip yoke which will allow for proper slip travel and bushing contact for best performance. A must have when using any T-400, 4L80, 4L85, 6L80 truck transmission with the threaded hole in the output shaft.
With this counterbored slip yoke you can now use a normal car style driveshaft.
  • Length to center of u-joint... Dimension #1 = 5.50 inches
  • Barrel Diameter... Dimension #2 = 1.886 inches
  • Barrel Length... Dimension #3 = 3 1/4 inches
  • U-joint cap diameter... Dimension #4 = 1.188 inches
  • U-joint width... Dimension #5 = 3.625 inches
  • Series... 1350
  • Spline count... 32
  • Counterbore...1.480 inches
  • Counterbore Depth ....0.500 inches
 

Supercharged111

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 25, 2019
4,908
7,670
113
Colorado Springs, CO
This is copied from Denny's Driveshaft..

Neapco N3-3-2431X

1350 Series 32 spline T-400, 4L80, 4L85, 6L80 Transmission Slip yoke

Replaces the truck style bolt on yoke with a normal car style slip yoke which will allow for proper slip travel and bushing contact for best performance. A must have when using any T-400, 4L80, 4L85, 6L80 truck transmission with the threaded hole in the output shaft.
With this counterbored slip yoke you can now use a normal car style driveshaft.
  • Length to center of u-joint... Dimension #1 = 5.50 inches
  • Barrel Diameter... Dimension #2 = 1.886 inches
  • Barrel Length... Dimension #3 = 3 1/4 inches
  • U-joint cap diameter... Dimension #4 = 1.188 inches
  • U-joint width... Dimension #5 = 3.625 inches
  • Series... 1350
  • Spline count... 32
  • Counterbore...1.480 inches
  • Counterbore Depth ....0.500 inches

That's the one I need to get. Thought they were a little longer for some reason.
 

tokarz1

Greasemonkey
Feb 16, 2019
119
371
63
Phoenix, NY
Since I boxed in the frame, buying off the shelf brake lines wouldn't work. I want something that I hopefully will not have to do again so I opted for copper/nickel brake lines. I picked up a roll of 3/16 for the front and 1/4" for the back along with a proportioning valve for 4-wheel disc brakes.

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Using the old lines as a sort of template I started bending them up. This took quite a while as I was trying to get them perfect. So much measuring and so many bends.

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Pretty sure I wasted more than I used.

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The front came out great, but I was not happy with the rear where it goes into the valve.

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I bought another roll and now I am happy with it.

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tokarz1

Greasemonkey
Feb 16, 2019
119
371
63
Phoenix, NY
Not to much done but did get a few things knocked out.
After the engine reassembly I wanted to be sure I got some oil up to the top of the engine. I did however cover everything in assembly lube when it was apart. First, I had to buy a new dipstick and tube as the one from the motorhome was routed differently.


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I modified and used the old distributor that came with the engine as a priming tool.

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I picked up the steering components a while ago and decided to get those installed. Of course, I had them painted up first with the VHT Chassis paint.

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I did not trust the old water pump even though it didn't have many miles on it so bolted on a new Gates one.

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Oh, and I bolted the drive selector pivot bracket up.

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