Monte stalls with AC on

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Hmms86

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 18, 2017
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when you have the ac on what level is your alternator charging?
Not sure, I got rid of the receipt from the test done at Advance 3 days ago. It did tell me that the alternator was good though. All electrical systems were good, per that diagnostic.

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Hmms86

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 18, 2017
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It is the plunger that is in front of the throttle lever.
Learned something new today. Then again, this is exactly why I bought the project! I would imagine this idle stop solenoid is supposed to put pressure on the throttle body to raise idle to account for AC load. Since I was able to move the "plunger" by hand, I moved it away from the throttle body to find that it did not engage or move at all once I turned on the AC. Will replace that Saturday morning! You think that'd also account for the loss of power though?

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TURNA

Rocket Powered Basset Hound
Jul 24, 2009
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Is your car fuel injected or does it have a carburetor?
 

pontiacgp

blank
Mar 31, 2006
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Kitchener, Ontario
Not sure, I got rid of the receipt from the test done at Advance 3 days ago. It did tell me that the alternator was good though. All electrical systems were good, per that diagnostic.

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the alternator may test good for what it is but it may not be enough amps for your needs
 

Hmms86

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 18, 2017
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the alternator may test good for what it is but it may not be enough amps for your needs
Not sure I understand. It's all stock. Seems as if someone may have butchered some wiring near the fuse panel, but there's nothing requiring extra amps or voltage in the car. The alternator tested almost at the same level under load as it did with nothing on in the car.

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Bonnewagon

Lost in the Labyrinth
Supporting Member
Sep 18, 2009
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As a test why not just manually adjust the idle speed up to around 1000rpm, engage the AC, and see if that cures the stalling. Most engines idle at around 500-600 rpm and the AC solenoid only bumps it up enough to keep it from stalling. It is adjustable and you can set it at whatever works for you. I set mine at 1000 rpm and that does the trick for me. With the AC disengaged I idle at 650.
 
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Canon_Mutant

Royal Smart Person
Aug 15, 2015
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The idle control solenoid should ONLY affect how the car "idles" when the AC is on. Not how it runs going down the road. When you say it loses power while you're driving, I cannot help but assume there is something else going on? If however it is when you are returning to idle while driving that it loses power then, yeah, => idle control solenoid.

Now, a really poorly running engine can be noticeably affected by the AC compressor running or going up a hill or 4 passengers instead of one etc as they are all increased load. Not being a smart *ss here as I don't know your experience with cars or skill level, OK? That said, my still low mileage [9] 307 didn't notice the AC much and my big block doesn't notice it at all other than me hearing the click.

Crappy picture but this . . . you should see this pop out and back when the AC comes on and off to bump up the idle speed. You can adjust it to set just where it works well for your setup?

images
 

robert garringer

Not-quite-so-new-guy
May 9, 2018
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bradenton,florida
check the fusable link down at the starter.i bet when you put the extra load on the electrical system it looses voltage. try it with the heat on or just with the fan motor running wide open and see if it does it then.
 

airboatgreg

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 2, 2016
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I have several ideas but a lot more questions!!
Please be more specific on when it acts up. Speeds, time of driving, do headlights dim at night just before it happens to lose power. Does it shut off like turning key off? Belt squeal? Does AC quit cooling a little while before it shuts down? If it does cruising down road forget the idle solenoid or valve. Is vehicle stock?
Send some underhood pics.
 
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