I'm going to be swapping my Elcos 350 for a 383 shortly and I'm getting (I hope) everything I'll need ahead of time. I've been checking out new MMs. On my factory ones I had to cut part of one off to clear a header tube. Are these new ones with polyurethane any smaller or would I still have the same problem?
Motor mounts???
- Thread starter Doug Chahoy
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The polys need you to gut the rubber from the stock shells. From when I did mine with a Energy Suspension set, I found out (originally ignored the instructions) that you'll have to leave the frame side loose enough to drop the engine on them. Then get the bolts in loose until you get the frame mounts squared & tightened down. Since everything was done as one unit I got the transmission mount snugged in place until everything looked squared. FYI, I replaced all my frame side with grade 8 9/16-18 flange bolts, running the bolts up from the inside of the frame, made it easier to install everything (of course I'm working on a bodyless frame so it would be.)
I am guessing you had to cut the upper clamsheel for clearance and not the lower frame mount.
The older style mounts used on A body cars with the rubber or urethane on the upper engine mount and the lower mount being solid will have more clearance but I don't know if our frames have the holes for that style lower mount.
The Gbody mounts have the "captured" lower mount with the rubber insert that would still limit travel in case of a breakage.
The most clearance would be gained with solid mounts depending on what you plans are for the car.
I ran notched clamshell uppers with solid lowers and never had a problem because of the notch but eventually switched to smaller Moroso solid mounts for more clearance when I went with my Lemons Headers.
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