My 1988 Cutlass resto project

88 Gutlass

Greasemonkey
Jan 1, 2020
102
249
43
Ga
She made her maidan drive to work yesterday and today… amazed on how she drives and handles
 

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JohnIL

Greasemonkey
Sep 9, 2020
131
310
63
Central Illinois
Very cool project. I'm glad you got her back on the road. Your LT1 installation turned out very clean. It looks like it belongs in there. That's a real challenge to pull off with a modern drive train swap. Keep up the good work! (y)
 
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88 Gutlass

Greasemonkey
Jan 1, 2020
102
249
43
Ga
I appreciate the kind comment, I have really enjoyed being able to start driving her. I am ringing out some minor bugs but over all very pleased with how it has come along. I am just amazed that the trunk popper, all interior lights work and even the under hood and trunk lights work!!!! The ride is smooth and firm at same time.
 
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88 Gutlass

Greasemonkey
Jan 1, 2020
102
249
43
Ga
C4F4EF52-559D-429B-95BA-14227F4BD73C.jpeg
 

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88 Gutlass

Greasemonkey
Jan 1, 2020
102
249
43
Ga
I have put 400 miles on her way over the past few weeks. I have this lean to the passenger side I can’t figure out. I have changed all the body bushings, swapped all the suspension from drivers to passenger side and the front has gotten within 1/4” of each other but rear is about 1” off of each other! Anyone have any ideas?
 

abbey castro

Royal Smart Person
Oct 31, 2015
1,046
1,313
113
Harker Hts TX
I have put 400 miles on her way over the past few weeks. I have this lean to the passenger side I can’t figure out. I have changed all the body bushings, swapped all the suspension from drivers to passenger side and the front has gotten within 1/4” of each other but rear is about 1” off of each other! Anyone ha

I have put 400 miles on her way over the past few weeks. I have this lean to the passenger side I can’t figure out. I have changed all the body bushings, swapped all the suspension from drivers to passenger side and the front has gotten within 1/4” of each other but rear is about 1” off of each other! Anyone have any ideas?
Loosen upper and lower control arms at both the differential and frame. If you have sway bar, that too. Make sure the spring upper rubber cushion (if you have them) fully seated and the spring is seated on it. Sitting on-the-ground (suspension loaded), re-tighten everything. See the RED cushion. Hope this helps.
 

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88 Gutlass

Greasemonkey
Jan 1, 2020
102
249
43
Ga
Loosen upper and lower control arms at both the differential and frame. If you have sway bar, that too. Make sure the spring upper rubber cushion (if you have them) fully seated and the spring is seated on it. Sitting on-the-ground (suspension loaded), re-tighten everything. See the RED cushion. Hope this helps.
I have done all of that except the rear sway bar. I have the factory isolators, thinking about going with the energy suspension poly for ones. Forgot to mention I have umi lower control arms and adjustable uppers. I haven’t loosed up the shock tower brace either. Guess those tow will be my next
 

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abbey castro

Royal Smart Person
Oct 31, 2015
1,046
1,313
113
Harker Hts TX
I have done all of that except the rear sway bar. I have the factory isolators, thinking about going with the energy suspension poly for ones. Forgot to mention I have umi lower control arms and adjustable uppers. I haven’t loosed up the shock tower brace either. Guess those tow will be my next
I have the same setup (UMI) you are using. The Upper frame brace doesn't do anything except horizontal bracing. IMO, I took out all my poly bushings, hate the noise and they were beginning to dry rot. Went with all rubber bushings (front/rear) by MOOG.
 
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mclellan83

Comic Book Super Hero
Jun 27, 2017
4,244
9,403
113
Pgh, PA
She made her maidan drive to work yesterday and today… amazed on how she drives and handles
She looks pretty mean with those big meats hanging out in the back
 
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