My Dodge Truck Project (Cummins Inside)

joesregalproject

Comic Book Super Hero
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Nov 4, 2012
4,941
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Pittsburgh, PA
I've been working on some cooling system items over the weekend. On Friday I dumped a bottle of Prestone Radiator flush in the truck and drove it around for about 2 hours spread over Friday and Saturday.

Yesterday I picked up 4 gallons of coolant and 4 gallons of distilled water. I wanted to use a long life coolant that was intended for diesels (even though this engine doesn't have wet liners) that would be available at any parts store. I came up with Zerex G05. It is readily available in both concentrate and pre-mix at O'Reilly, Autozone, NAPA, and Advance.
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I also ordered a water pump; it showed up around 7PM yesterday.
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I began doing drain and fills last night, filling with tap water, running for 10 minutes or so, then draining and repeating until the water started coming out mostly clear. I know some people say to only used distilled water, but with a 6 gallon coolant capacity, I'd need to clear out a couple Walmarts to get that much distilled water.

Original color-
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First drain-
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Second drain-
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Third drain-
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Final drain-
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Once I felt I had flushed enough of the old coolant out, I swapped out the water pump. This was the easiest water pump I've ever replaced. 2 easily accessible bolts and a rubber o-ring to seal it. The old pump was a Concentric. Concentric was the OE supplier, so it's possible that was the original pump. It's difficult to confirm, but I suspect it was leaking.
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At the last minute I decided to change the radiator hoses as they looked a bit swollen. I got two Gates hoses from O'Reilly. The block side clamp on the lower hose was an absolute b*tch but the rest was easy.

The system capacity is supposed to be about 6 gallons. If you include the expansion tank, I got a little more than 5 gallons in it. I'll monitor the level closely for a while to see if it burps any more air out. I still need to change the thermostat and radiator cap, but I will be ordering OE for those. I've had nothing but trouble from aftermarket thermostats and radiator caps.

The small head gasket leak doesn't seem to have gotten any better or worse in changing the coolant. I did some more reading around and found that there is a product called Zerex Super Seal that is approved by Cummins for use in ISX engines to seal coolant leaks. They mostly use it for EGR cooler leaks but I can't see why it wouldn't work for this as well. I'm not ready to dump it in yet but it's an option if it comes to that point. For now I'm gonna try to live with it as-is and monitor the level closely.
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joesregalproject

Comic Book Super Hero
Thread starter
Nov 4, 2012
4,941
113
Pittsburgh, PA
Coldest cold start yet the morning but its the last work day of a short week so I wanted to drive it this morning.
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25°, it was not plugged in. Took a few tries and had a nasty idle for minute but it did start fine.
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Also, since changing the coolant, this is the highest my temp needle has gone. Thermostat doesn't like the new coolant maybe? I still get heat from the vents so it's not cold inside but it's not as hot as it was.
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Oct 14, 2008
7,651
113
Melville,Saskatchewan
A Winter front may be a good investment. It makes a big difference.
 
Oct 14, 2008
7,651
113
Melville,Saskatchewan

joesregalproject

Comic Book Super Hero
Thread starter
Nov 4, 2012
4,941
113
Pittsburgh, PA
This afternoon started out with "the valve cover gaskets are leaking, maybe I can tighten them down and see if that fixes it" and spiraled out of control from there.

I tried to snug the bolts up but they were already pretty tight. So I figured I should replace the gaskets. But in order to get all the valve covers off that EGR tube has to come off and I'll be damned if I was gonna bolt it back on when I was done. I unbolted it and to my surprise, found that someone already put a block off plate in the EGR, so it wasn't doing anything anyways.
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I purchased a non-EGR intake manifold and exhaust manifold a few weeks ago. The intake manifold is easy to replace, the exhaust manifold is an hours long affair assuming no bolts break. So I decided to make an EGR blockoff plate for the exhaust manifold that is already on there. I had this old forklift mast that I grabbed when they put new ones on at my old job.
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It's made out of nice, thick 1/2" steel. I knew I'd use it someday. I used the gasket as a template and made this-
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I haven't been able to find the gasket for it in any parts manual or book or online, so I'm gonna reuse the one I have rather than fck around with the morons at autozone trying to find a close one. Tomorrow I'll paint the blockoff plate along with the intake and get them maybe get them installed.
 
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joesregalproject

Comic Book Super Hero
Thread starter
Nov 4, 2012
4,941
113
Pittsburgh, PA
Got up this morning and froze my *ss off getting the old intake horn removed and installing the new one. Of course the old gasket stuck to the engine side and my fingers were numb scraping it off.
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The main reason for replacing the whole thing rather instead of just using a blockoff plate (besides looking nicer) is that the EGR intake has a bottleneck cast in it and is a lot more restrictive than the standard one.
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I had to use a few washers to make the exhaust manifold block off fit, the studs weren't threaded the whole way down, but I'm happy with it. For the solenoid, I just unplugged and removed it and capped the vacuum line at the tee.
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Took it for a ride and filled it up with diesel and put some winterizer/antigel/cetane booster in the tank. I have the valve cover gaskets on my desk but I'm too cold to want to play with them right now.
 
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