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Johnny99

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 21, 2017
7
3
3
San Antonio, Texas
Hi! Just introducing myself. 1984 cutlass Calais, (and 1985 Cutlass Supreme Brougham), both 3.8l v6 3800cc 231ci.

Regards,

Johnny99 or just JD
 
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Injectedcutty

G body LS mafia
Nov 24, 2014
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Welcome aboard from KY to the best G body site out!!! As SoFloG said, we like G body p*rn....share some pics of your rides when you get a chance!
 
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Johnny99

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 21, 2017
7
3
3
San Antonio, Texas
I've been maintaining my Aunt's 84 Cutlass Calais since 1996. She actually had a shop exchange the engine in1992 with a rebuilt short block. I never knew for sure until just recently, but I think from the numbers, that the block is an 83, (25506397) and the heads are 86-87, (25518445). Unfortunately when the lower radiator hose sprung a leak and boiled over, a few weeks ago, she just kept on driving, another 3-5 (city) miles. I went and added water, followed her home the last 2 miles, and changed the LRH the next day. She didn't drive anywhere that week, until the following Sunday. She made her usual 17 mile roundabout (stop n go through city streets) trip to see my mom and they drove to several stores locally. It was when she left that evening (5:45 and 102) That she called to say her car was making an "awful sound" and was "hard to start" (water filled cylinder?) to pull in the garage. She blew left side head gasket at #5 cyl. Also "warmed" the motor pretty good. Towed it to my house. I had the heads redone and put it all back together, along with all new gaskets, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and belts... But I'm not out of the woods yet. I'm thinking the rings may be gone. I'm not sure though, I didn't run it/drive for more than about 10 minutes the night I finished and then one short test drive (2 miles) that next morning at an avg. of 35 mph. One other thing. I replaced the lifters (which didn't have much of a crown but were I believe "Okay") with lifters meant for a 350 Chevy. A friend assured me that these new unused lifters, he wanted to give me, were compatible. This thing smoked pretty good on the short test drive, but not really when idling (rich). Another issue during all this is that the oil sending unit is going to need replacing. I had 0 oil pressure reading at first start, but found the lower hose pushing against the oil pressure sensor's wire. The gauge then showed 30-40psi at 1500 rpm. There is now also "tapping" sound coming from the #5 cylinder which "settled down after idling the first couple minutes each of the three times I've started it.
So, I have an intermittent oil sending unit, the wrong lifters, a tapping sound at/or below #5 cylinder,... and a pretty good amount of what I think looked more like white, than blue smoke, bellowing in the rear view, the one time I test drove 8-10 minutes/2 miles.
I know I need to replace the oil press. unit. I'm going to have to pull the intake and install correct lifters. The reality of it all, is that I don't have the time or the money, (unfortunately neither does my Aunt) to have all this done at a professional repair shop. that's why I took a shot at the top end of this motor hoping... Obviously I'm not a professional mechanic. If I have to pull the motor for a full rebuild It's going to be a long difficult endeavor. Right now I'm looking for advice as to what (other) things I should do and in what order? If it has to be done- I have access to a hoist. However, I really don't want to pull heads 3 times. I won't be able to devote a large amount of time these next few weeks. I will replace the oil sending unit after work this week. Wondering if should drop the oil pan and take a look see as well? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Johnny (JD)
 
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GP403

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Feb 25, 2005
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looks like you've got the hang of it.... carry on.
 
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Clutch

Geezer
Apr 7, 2017
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Brick NJ
Greetings from dirty Jersey you got this if you want make a thred you'll get lots of answers and suggestions
 
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SoFloG

Royal Smart Person
Mar 9, 2016
1,083
1,213
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South Florida
Bro, run some blue devil throught it, then do an oil change with 50% lucas stabilizer. Quickest fix short of a complete rebuild. It's a 307?
 
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Johnny99

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 21, 2017
7
3
3
San Antonio, Texas
Bro, run some blue devil throught it, then do an oil change with 50% lucas stabilizer. Quickest fix short of a complete rebuild. It's a 307?

Thanks! It's a 3.8l v63800cc 231ci.
Definitely will try Blue Devil before pulling motor. What exact kind of BD? The heads and gaskets are rebuilt/fresh.
Supposing, after I get the -correct- lifters in place and new oil sending unit, how long and how much smoke/steam/catalytic burn-off, etc would be considered normal ? That is if the rings are okay?
 

Johnny99

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 21, 2017
7
3
3
San Antonio, Texas
UPDATE: New correct lifters installed. Motor quiet now. Noise was rocker arms. It never smoked at all once after the new lifters were installed. Also replaced leaking oil sending pressure switch. I poured oil out of filter after a 30 minute test drive, including some high speed high-way testing, oil was muddy looking w "baked dirt". No metal shavings or metal pieces. Before, oil pressure was low 30 at startup but would drop low when at idle in drive (5psi). Pressure after an engine flush with a quart can of Gunk MotorMedic and new oil/filter is now 35+ and around 15 Idle/in drive. Also gauge seems more responsive. Redid all vac lines. Checked and cleaned idle speed control. It was running great but the following day it really fell off and was missing and running really rough. Replaced idle speed control... same. I just figured ISC had failed when actually the carb base gasket had started leaking vacuum. I wanted to keep the original gasket because of the EFE heater. Replaced gasket w a standard $9 plain gasket. Then I got a Chassis Service Manual and properly adjusted the new idle speed control. The fuel pump also started leaking and I replaced that. I think the original overheating condition must have caused some of these old marginal parts I've mentioned to fail.
I tried it this morning cold. It does, (semi rough) idle up to about 1100 until I tap pedal. Then it returns to about 700. There is just a bit of rough idle in general. Once the motor reaches operating temp it's much less noticeable, but still there. When I first put it all back together after heads went to machine shop, it was purring like a kitten. I think maybe I need to double check timing/dwell/fast idle. The only carb adjustments (beside the stop idle screw for ISC) made so far is the idle air bleed valve. This I gently seated then backed out 4 turns... Closing it down doesn't seem to change much. Right now I have that at 3 turns out. The rich mixture stop screw and the two idle mixture needles are accessible... Before I touch any of that I'm going to have to get my own timing light, dwell meter and some carb. adjustment tools. I personally have never attempted to adjust any of this before. I hope some minor adjusting may smooth it out... I'm proceeding very cautiously, because most of all this is more than I have ever attempted by myself, until now.
 
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